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Tony Bubb starts up the thin crack and open book s...
It is a nice route that is more fun than it looks and deceptively hard and easy, at the same time. It is steeper than it looks (harder) yet the locks are killer for small fingers (mine) and there are great rests from which to put in gear (easier).
The best strategy is to go for it, placing and resting when stances are found.
This open book and flake lies in a right-facing dihedral near the far right end of the S.E. face of Fin wall. A plaque at it's base reads: "Virgin Voyage 5.10++"
Lots of cams from .33 to .75. Maybe a really small can here or there and a few 1" pieces.
Be cautious to place the gear deep, as the edge of the crack/flake is thin and may flex or break on a hard fall.
By Princess Mia
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Fun Fun….but still so hard……..
For me, double set of Master Cams (blue-orange), I also use a BD 0.3 and 0.4. Save a baby blue for the top.