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There are two camps when it comes to the VRG: Those who scoff at the idea of ever climbing there and the die-hard few who swear it is the best climbing in the country. The truth is the VRG has some of the worst scenery of any climbing area, but some of the best rock. If you can get past not being able to hear yourself think (or your partner for that matter), ugly road cuts, graffiti, and sometimes inhospitable temperature extremes, you will be rewarded with difficult, sustained lines, fantastic movement, and plenty of hard climbing.
From the North: Take I-15 South from Saint George. After mile marker 14 cross a bridge over the Virgin River. Park immediately after this at a pullout on the right by an immense embankment/dirt mound. From the South, continue past the VRG to exit 18, turn around and follow above directions. There is camping amongst the used syringes and condoms in a gravel pit just north of the highway at exit 18.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Virgin River Gorge:
Featured Route For Virgin River Gorge
Mentor 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Mentor Cave
Super classic! If you can stand the road noise and the guys breaking into your car, this is the route you want to be doing while you are here. Climbs out the Mentor cave (just right of the Blasphemy wall) on great pockets, edges, sidepulls... the whole kitchen sink. Very Steep!Somewhere toward the middle you even get a leg thread to cop a rest. Once you pull out of the cave onto the headwall, you lose sight of your belayer - and the road noise ensures you can't communicate verbally. Just a he...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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