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Virgin Gorda, BVI

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Virgin Gorda, BVI  


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Location: 18.4314, -64.4436 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam Catalano on Jan 27, 2009
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20 seconds with 2 stacked GNDs.

Description 

"Unreal" beach bouldering according to Ivan Greene's new video. More potential than you could ever imagine. Some lines have remnants of chalk, most others are washed clean by frequent afternoon showers. The rock is actually grippy, except where waves have polished it smooth.
There is a brand new guide published by Fixed Pin Publishing and authored by Rich Crowder and Jonathon Wasser. Be sure to take this along if you go. It will really help get you started, even though some of the beaches have SO MANY boulders that it takes a few minutes to find your way.

HOW TO GET THERE: 

FLIGHT TO THE VIRGIN ISLANDS:
From the states, fly to either St. Thomas or San Juan. From St. Thomas you will want to stay in Red Hook at the opposite end of the island of Charlotte Amelia. Charlotte is known for its night crimes and can be considered, "Unsafe at night. During the day you will find all the good shopping here. Its about 10 minutes from Red hook. Red hook is a very small strip right by the ferry station.

FERRY SYSTEM:
You can jump in the ferry system over to Tortola then to VG. I usually take Native Son Inc. which as of 2015 they charge $40.00 round trip from St. Thomas to Virgin Gorda with a stop in Tortola. Watch the ferry schedule before traveling to St. Thomas the ferry goes on certain hours of certain days. REMEMBER: The British Virgin Gorda charges $20.00 per person to enter back into the US. Or for a bit more, you can fly Air Sunshine straight to VG. A few airlines fly San Juan to Tortola, then 30 minute ferry to VG.


Bouldering is by Spring Bay, The Baths and Devil's Bay on the South side of the island you will see this upon arrival if coming by ferry. The obvious striking island to your right is, " Fallen Jerusalem". This area has lots of development and as previously stated, " Striking." If you can swim or ride a boat try and get to this island as it has some of the best bouldering in the area.

WHERE TO STAY 

GUAVABERRY SPRING BAY RESORT
This IS the one and only place to stay for bouldering on the island. Beautiful resort that is build right on top of a boulder field. There is bouldering built into some of the sites and very close if not. They offer rooms with A/C and rooms with not. Although the resorts "HUTs" are all vented with slats for all the windows and walls an A/C is a must unless you like sleeping in 80 degree weather with high humidity. Past times I have stayed they already had a crash pad waiting at our hut. I don't recall telling them I was there to boulder I'm guessing every guest gets one. They offer full kitchens with very nice new pots, pans and anything you need to cook full meals. They have a great commissary ( store which uses the HONOR SYSTEM ) it offers enough of a selection of meats, beer, liquor, breakfast items and snacks. Guavaberry Springs lies right on Spring Bay. You will head back towards the rd from the huts. If your coming from across the rd ( Not by check in) you will take a right and walk for about 3 minutes and go down the Spring Bay trail off the road that is well marked and labeled. If you are coming from huts by the check in office you will take a left by the main rd. and walk for about 3 minutes till you see the Spring Bay sign off to the left.

The Guidebook 

New Virgin Gorda Bouldering Guide by Rich Crowder ...
New Virgin Gorda Bouldering Guide by Rich Crowder and Jonathon Wasser from Fixed Pin

to pick up a copy:
fixedpin.com/

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.4 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',12],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Virgin Gorda, BVI:
Rubiks Cube   V0 4     Boulder, 15'   Spring Bay : The Suspended Boulder
White Crab ArÍte    V1 5     Boulder, 15'   Spring Bay : The High Tide Boulder
Island Flake   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Spring Bay : The High Tide Boulder
Island Crack   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Spring Bay : Spring Bay Boulder
Babar   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Babar Boulder
Browse More Classics in Virgin Gorda, BVI

Featured Route For Virgin Gorda, BVI
Fun pinch sequence

Babar V6-7 7A+  North America : Virgin Islands : ... : Babar Boulder
Start on the left, with feet on the other boulder. Pinch your way out the rim of the roof, then climb the crack....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Virgin Gorda, BVI Slideshow Add Photo
Rich Crowder's cover shot of "A Guide to Boul...
Rich Crowder's cover shot of "A Guide to Boul...
Boulders abound
Boulders abound
The boys enjoy some VG beach bouldering at Little ...
The boys enjoy some VG beach bouldering at Little ...
Ivan Greene's Unreal film
Ivan Greene's Unreal film

Comments on Virgin Gorda, BVI Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jan 27, 2009
What I placed up here is just barely a taste of the area's potential. MANY MANY others have done far greater things. These are just the easiest to find projects. I'm guessing people were keeping VG a secret by not posting it earlier. However, with Ivan Greene's video now out, it is no longer a hidden gem.
I went in June of 08 and the temps were 85 highs and 75 lows. It is pretty much in this range all year. I'm going back again this spring. It is THAT GOOD.
There may be other names to these routes. I have no idea. I just thought these up on the fly.
By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Jan 28, 2009
I honeymooned here and had a great time exploring the boulders. The limiting factors are heat and sand. I didn't take a pad and had no spotters, but the climbing was still fun. I preferred the boulders of Spring Bay and Devils Bay over the Baths proper... too many gawkers! Hopefully more folks will contribute beta; its a great little bouldering vacation paradise.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 18, 2009
so how about it the fall, like september, still warm and tropical like?
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jul 21, 2009
Not much of a change in seasons. Winter-Summer - 10-15 degrees maybe. Had a friend who went down in August and found 100 degree days but that is very abnormal. What I would watch out for in planning a late summer/fall trip would be hurricane season.
By chris begue
Aug 18, 2009
The first time I climbed here was in the 70's and I was so bummed that I did not have a rope and the cliffs were not taller. My next encounter was in 84 and holy mother I knew what bouldering was and I knew what soft landings were and I was in the birth place of those. So cool to see pictures of an area that was part of my becoming a traveling climber. Remember to leave the places better then they were when you got there.
Love and peace
Chris
By Jonathon Wasser
Apr 10, 2011
Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands will be the center for Caribbean bouldering this June. Come help develop the already established bouldering scene on the island by naming and documenting new boulder problems, locating new areas, and enjoying the beautiful Caribbean weather. The concentration of the dates for this event will be between June 2-June 22.

Contact Jonathon Wasser at wasserj@gwu.edu
or
Rich Crowder at Rich@richcrowder.com

for details.
By Rich C
Apr 13, 2013
Guidebook includes tons of travel beta and hundreds of problems:
fixedpin.com/British_Virgin_Is...

By Sarah Silverstein
Nov 25, 2013
Hi! I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know if there's somewhere to rent crash pads down there?
We are staying on a sailboat and guavaberry won't rent to non-guests
By MPT
From: Cambridge, MA
Dec 2, 2014
For anyone looking to rent a couple crash pads, contact Howard at info@villasvirgingorda.com. He has two pads that he will rent out by the day. If you stay in one of the villa's that he manages, he'll let you use them for free.

On that note, a lot of great boulders at VG are on private property in the back yards of houses. If you are taking a trip, it's worth asking about the rock that exists in your villa's back yard. Obviously check with the owners that they are okay with you climbing it. We stayed at Grape Tree Villa through Howard and had a days worth of bouldering in our back yard.