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Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C2 PG13
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Tiara Rado
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100' Hands T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Double Fist Offwidth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flapper T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Large Surprises T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mike's Brother Kenyon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Singles T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squeeze Me Macaroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
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Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown, OW/Squeeze T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13 |
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Wide Inside T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 919 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Paul S on Jan 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the tower in front of Agustina's and Eagle Tower, it's easily identified with an arch like feature on its backside.
P1 & 2, climb the same 1st 2 pitches of Agustina's. Move belay 30' up using the same belay as you would for the last pitch on Agustina's.
P3 Squeeze up the arch, avoiding some big loose blocks. You're aiming for an obvious little slot that you can get pro in, it's a bit run out getting there. Once there, slam in a #4 and/or a #5 cam and pendulum left to the junky crack. The quality of it improves, but after the bulge it takes a turn for the worse. The crack/seam traverses left and the upper portion of the crack is very hollow. When I weighted the first cam I placed sand came pouring out. It's spooky. If I were to do this again I think I would bring some hooks and use those instead of having to deal with that hollow section again. After this, some fixed protection leads to a mantel to the top.
This route really is probably only C2, but I was a little more nervous than I typically get at this grade..YMMV.
P1 & 2, climb the same 1st 2 pitches of Agustina's. Move belay 30' up using the same belay as you would for the last pitch on Agustina's.
P3 Squeeze up the arch, avoiding some big loose blocks. You're aiming for an obvious little slot that you can get pro in, it's a bit run out getting there. Once there, slam in a #4 and/or a #5 cam and pendulum left to the junky crack. The quality of it improves, but after the bulge it takes a turn for the worse. The crack/seam traverses left and the upper portion of the crack is very hollow. When I weighted the first cam I placed sand came pouring out. It's spooky. If I were to do this again I think I would bring some hooks and use those instead of having to deal with that hollow section again. After this, some fixed protection leads to a mantel to the top.
This route really is probably only C2, but I was a little more nervous than I typically get at this grade..YMMV.
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