Violince Wall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  32.2365, -104.754 Map Page Views:  4,266. Good page?    Administrators:  Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

The right half of the Violince Wall. The lower bi...

Description 

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.

Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.

Getting There 

Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.

The Classics

Featured Route For Violince Wall

Fiddler on the Roof 5.11a  NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Violince Wall

Three cruxes on this one. First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section. Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical. Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top. Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug. Sit down, clip the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Violince Wall Slideshow

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Left side of the Violence Wall.	In the crux of "Violence", 5.10d (route #13 ...	Cruxing on route #12, 5.10b, one of the best...
Route #8, 5.9, a good slab route with a dist...	Route #4. I gave this the nickname "Zagreb"...	From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by ro...

Comments on Violince Wall

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By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Jan 30, 2008

Violin Wall....not violence....

By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 30, 2008

The topo I have, which was reportedly drawn by Gogas, refers to it in 3 spots as the "Violince Wall". Nowhere does it use the term "Violin".

By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Jan 31, 2008

Hmmmm, I changed it back to Violince Wall...

By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 31, 2008

I assumed the spelling was a typo, and they meant "violence". However, from Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers." From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers." Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 31, 2008 So now we have three possibilities: Violins, Violince, and Violence.

By Craig Childre From: Lubbock, Texas Jan 31, 2008

Only route that I actually have heard a name for is Fiddler on the Roof. That 11a roof crack in the middle of the wall. Drew and Gillet both referred to this as Violin Wall. The other longtime locals never corrected any of us. Oh well. Considering things, seems that correcting us over nuances of the name was not all that likely. It has probably been Violince all the while and I've been mistaken.

By Brice Jul 28, 2008

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I have heard Gillet refer to this as Violin wall.