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Violince Wall

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Violence S 

Violince Wall 


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Location: 32.2365, -104.754 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,031
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
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The right half of the Violince Wall. The lower bi...
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.

Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.


Getting There 

Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Violince Wall:
Riot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   
Fiddler on the Roof   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Violince Wall

Featured Route For Violince Wall
Tony getting pyshced for the big roof of "Fiddler On the Roof", 5.11a

Fiddler on the Roof 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : ... : Violince Wall
Three cruxes on this one. First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section. Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical. Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top. Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug. Sit down, clip the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Violince Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of the Violence Wall.
Left side of the Violence Wall.
Route #4.  I gave this the nickname "Zagreb", after the famous Ceuse 5.11 with similar brown-hued limestone.  This route is an excellent technical 5.11.
Route #4. I gave this the nickname "Zagreb"...
In the crux of "Violence", 5.10d (route #13 on the topo).  The route "Upper Crack" (#11) climbs through the roof crack in the top of the photo.
In the crux of "Violence", 5.10d (route #13 ...
Route #8, 5.9, a good slab route with a distinct crux.  Note the gray streak to the right.  This is #7, one of the easiest routes in the canyon (5.8) and a good warmup.
Route #8, 5.9, a good slab route with a dist...
Cruxing on route #12, 5.10b, one of the best lines on the wall.
Cruxing on route #12, 5.10b, one of the best...
From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers."
From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by ro...
Comments on Violince Wall Add Comment
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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jan 30, 2008

Violin Wall....not violence....

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 30, 2008

The topo I have, which was reportedly drawn by Gogas, refers to it in 3 spots as the "Violince Wall". Nowhere does it use the term "Violin".

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 31, 2008

Hmmmm, I changed it back to Violince Wall...

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 31, 2008

I assumed the spelling was a typo, and they meant "violence". However, from Wikipedia:

"Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers."

From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers."
From Wikipedia: "Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers."



So now we have three possibilities: Violins, Violince, and Violence.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jan 31, 2008

Only route that I actually have heard a name for is Fiddler on the Roof. That 11a roof crack in the middle of the wall. Drew and Gillet both referred to this as Violin Wall. The other longtime locals never corrected any of us. Oh well.

Considering things, seems that correcting us over nuances of the name was not all that likely. It has probably been Violince all the while and I've been mistaken.

By Brice
Jul 28, 2008

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I have heard Gillet refer to this as Violin wall.