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 ADVANCED
Wigwam Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Supremo T,S 
Hill's Route T 
Lady Slipper T,S 
Little Bo Peep Diploma T 
On the Edge T 
Pow Wow Canal T,S 
Ramblin' Rose T 
Teepee Tower Crack T 
Trail of Tears T 
Trout-Baker Buttress T 
Violent Energy T 
Warpath T 
Wunsch's Simulator T 

Violent Energy 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Nov 23, 2008

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Violent Energy is labled "H".

Description 

This is a tips and toes test-piece. Pass the first two on Ramblin' Rose, then a sharp finger traverse, just above the third bolt, leads left to the power-stemming crux. Logical first pitch to El Supremo because it stays in the groove.

Not a good lead until new bolts go in.

Location 

In the Wigwam Dome amphitheater, where all the waterfalls land when it rains.

Protection 

All the bolts need replacing. However the anchor makes for a nice top rope.


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By doak
From: boulder, co
Jun 15, 2015

While the bolts could definitely be updated, the crux move is protected with an old, rusty 3/8" bolt (as opposed to old rusty 1/4" buttonheads everywhere else), and the buttonheads are spaced closely enough that 2 would have to break before you hurt yourself. Augment your rack with a few small cams (#0.3-0.75 Camalots).

The crystals are sharp, I sliced open a fingertip at the crux. Bring some tape and/or superglue in case you need to patch yourself up.
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