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Violator S 

Violator 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Colin Lantz, 5/10/90
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Colin Lantz on Jul 30, 2012

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Colin Lantz - 3rd bolt clip.
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  • Description 

    Violator is a long way up Fern Canyon and just right of the classic Ruby Slipper. Technical arete climbing, great positioning, and hard boulder problems define the route. Solo up the first 25 feet of low-angle 5.0 rock or place nut or two to protect this access. Steep bouldery moves climb out left past the first two bolts. Barn door arete moves climb past the third and fourth bolts. An awkward move takes the climbing onto the right side of the arete past the fifth bolt. Climb over a bulge and onto the upper lower angle headwall past bolts six and seven. Enjoy the view down into Boulder and Denver as you clip the anchors. FA: May 10, 1990.


    Protection 

    7 QDs + a fixed anchor.



    Photos of Violator Slideshow Add Photo
    <em>Climbing Magazine</em> Oct./Nov., 1990.
    Climbing Magazine Oct./Nov., 1990.
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    By Colin Lantz
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 30, 2012

    Video from the FA in 1990.