Vinatzer 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 13 pitches, 985 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Giovanni Battista Vinatzer, Vicenzo Peristi. 1935 |
| Season: | Summer |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on May 25, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.
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Description Good route that ascends the west face to the tower.
Pitch 1 - Move up over slab and trend to the left towards a small scree patch. (35m)
Pitch 2 - Face climb straight up to the base of a chimney. (45m)
Pitch 3 - Climb the chimney to a crack and through a small overhang. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Follow a broken crack and face. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Short pitch up a ramp/groove to below a small overhang. (15m)
Pitch 6 - Climb up another broken crack and some face to gain the large terrace. (45m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse left on the terrace around a large boulder to the base of a steep finger crack. (20m)
Pitch 8 - Climb the steep finger crack and then face. (25m)
Pitch 9 - Climb the crack that trends up and left to the base of a corner/groove. (25m)
Pitch 10 - Climb up and then right ascending the corner/groove. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Move right around the arete and up through a chimney to a ramp that angle up and right. (45m)
Pitch 12 - From the ramp, follow a crack up and left which leads to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a stance on a small ledge. (25m)
Pitch 13 - Climb up easy slabs to the top of the formation. (50m)
Descent - Head down towards Piz Ciavazes on a well-marked path to a ring bolt. Rappel 25m. Continue following red markers to the left to the terrace. Follow the terrace to a gully. Climb down the gully until it gets steep. From here, take a narrow ledge to the left. From the end of this ledge, climb down 5m looking for a ring bolt. Continue down making three rappels of 15m, 20m, and 20m. This takes you back to the base of the wall.
Location The route ascends the west face of the tower.
Protection There are a number of pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and slings. Maybe a few small to medium cams as well.
The quick approach with the mountain in the backgr...
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The crux roof crack
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High up on Vinatzer
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Vinatzer route - Sella Tower III
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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.8
| A beautiful classic line up the right then center of the face. For the experienced crack climber the "crux" roof is quite easy. Like most routes in the area - a very easy approach with a quick descent make this a nice route to do on a day that you don't get an early start. |
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