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> Third Sella Tower
Vinatzer
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 18 votes
Type: | Trad, 985 ft (298 m), 13 pitches |
FA: | Giovanni Battista Vinatzer, Vicenzo Peristi. 1935 |
Page Views: | 5,630 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | e Dixon on May 25, 2007 |
Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
Good route that ascends the west face to the tower.
Pitch 1 - Move up over slab and trend to the left towards a small scree patch. (35m)
Pitch 2 - Face climb straight up to the base of a chimney. (45m)
Pitch 3 - Climb the chimney to a crack and through a small overhang. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Follow a broken crack and face. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Short pitch up a ramp/groove to below a small overhang. (15m)
Pitch 6 - Climb up another broken crack and some face to gain the large terrace. (45m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse left on the terrace around a large boulder to the base of a steep finger crack. (20m)
Pitch 8 - Climb the steep finger crack and then face. (25m)
Pitch 9 - Climb the crack that trends up and left to the base of a corner/groove. (25m)
Pitch 10 - Climb up and then right ascending the corner/groove. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Move right around the arete and up through a chimney to a ramp that angle up and right. (45m)
Pitch 12 - From the ramp, follow a crack up and left which leads to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a stance on a small ledge. (25m)
Pitch 13 - Climb up easy slabs to the top of the formation. (50m)
Descent - Head down towards Piz Ciavazes on a well-marked path to a ring bolt. Rappel 25m. Continue following red markers to the left to the terrace. Follow the terrace to a gully. Climb down the gully until it gets steep. From here, take a narrow ledge to the left. From the end of this ledge, climb down 5m looking for a ring bolt. Continue down making three rappels of 15m, 20m, and 20m. This takes you back to the base of the wall.
Pitch 1 - Move up over slab and trend to the left towards a small scree patch. (35m)
Pitch 2 - Face climb straight up to the base of a chimney. (45m)
Pitch 3 - Climb the chimney to a crack and through a small overhang. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Follow a broken crack and face. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Short pitch up a ramp/groove to below a small overhang. (15m)
Pitch 6 - Climb up another broken crack and some face to gain the large terrace. (45m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse left on the terrace around a large boulder to the base of a steep finger crack. (20m)
Pitch 8 - Climb the steep finger crack and then face. (25m)
Pitch 9 - Climb the crack that trends up and left to the base of a corner/groove. (25m)
Pitch 10 - Climb up and then right ascending the corner/groove. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Move right around the arete and up through a chimney to a ramp that angle up and right. (45m)
Pitch 12 - From the ramp, follow a crack up and left which leads to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a stance on a small ledge. (25m)
Pitch 13 - Climb up easy slabs to the top of the formation. (50m)
Descent - Head down towards Piz Ciavazes on a well-marked path to a ring bolt. Rappel 25m. Continue following red markers to the left to the terrace. Follow the terrace to a gully. Climb down the gully until it gets steep. From here, take a narrow ledge to the left. From the end of this ledge, climb down 5m looking for a ring bolt. Continue down making three rappels of 15m, 20m, and 20m. This takes you back to the base of the wall.
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