Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Tony Bubb and Kateri Ahrendt, 5/25/13 |
Page Views: | 665 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on May 25, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is a good climb that might benefit from a good scrubbing. One of the cruxes is 5.10 and is some distance above a doubled-down yellow Camalot placement. At some point thereafter (still hard climbing), the distance to a slab below is less than twice the distance above your protection and would be a very ugly fall. This should be considered R.
Climb up the initial 30-40' of YMCA through the wide section to a slabby ledge. On the right side of the dihedral there is a crack that runs from 0.75" to 3", starting out right and leaning left back inwards. Start on this (2") and pass some thinner sections (green and purple Camalot, then stoppers) before it opens back up to hand sizes. This leaning crack is the quality highlight of the route and is actually quite good. As you reach the top of the crack, it bottoms out and you can get shallow jams or a yellow Camalot or two. I placed both.... The crack is gone and some sidepulls remain. Use these and some sloper feet to power up and onto the arete, climbing that to the top, now level with the roof of YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack. This is the most 'exciting' part of the climb.
Get a semi-positive, but perhaps crumbly hanging spike, for a hold and lean out right from the arete into the top of the YMCA roof and left-handed jam, swing over left of the arete on that, being careful here not to loose footing (very bad fall if you did), and power over and up to the face again, above the roof.
Finish on YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack (5.6) to the edge or go 4' right on a ledge to the tree above Overtime, and rap from slings and a ring.
Climb up the initial 30-40' of YMCA through the wide section to a slabby ledge. On the right side of the dihedral there is a crack that runs from 0.75" to 3", starting out right and leaning left back inwards. Start on this (2") and pass some thinner sections (green and purple Camalot, then stoppers) before it opens back up to hand sizes. This leaning crack is the quality highlight of the route and is actually quite good. As you reach the top of the crack, it bottoms out and you can get shallow jams or a yellow Camalot or two. I placed both.... The crack is gone and some sidepulls remain. Use these and some sloper feet to power up and onto the arete, climbing that to the top, now level with the roof of YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack. This is the most 'exciting' part of the climb.
Get a semi-positive, but perhaps crumbly hanging spike, for a hold and lean out right from the arete into the top of the YMCA roof and left-handed jam, swing over left of the arete on that, being careful here not to loose footing (very bad fall if you did), and power over and up to the face again, above the roof.
Finish on YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack (5.6) to the edge or go 4' right on a ledge to the tree above Overtime, and rap from slings and a ring.
Location
This route starts as for YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack, but once past the initial wide section down low, look for a left-leaning hand and finger crack that splits the right side of the dihedral... for 60 before ending.
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