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Village People T 
YMCA Right Variation T 

Village People 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb and Kateri Ahrendt, 5/25/13
New Route: Yes
Season: Gets mostly Sun
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Tony B on May 26, 2013

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good climb that might benefit from a good scrubbing. One of the cruxes is 5.10 and is some distance above a doubled-down yellow Camalot placement. At some point thereafter (still hard climbing), the distance to a slab below is less than twice the distance above your protection and would be a very ugly fall. This should be considered R.

Climb up the initial 30-40' of YMCA through the wide section to a slabby ledge. On the right side of the dihedral there is a crack that runs from 0.75" to 3", starting out right and leaning left back inwards. Start on this (2") and pass some thinner sections (green and purple Camalot, then stoppers) before it opens back up to hand sizes. This leaning crack is the quality highlight of the route and is actually quite good. As you reach the top of the crack, it bottoms out and you can get shallow jams or a yellow Camalot or two. I placed both.... The crack is gone and some sidepulls remain. Use these and some sloper feet to power up and onto the arete, climbing that to the top, now level with the roof of YMCA Right Variation. This is the most 'exciting' part of the climb.

Get a semi-positive, but perhaps crumbly hanging spike, for a hold and lean out right from the arete into the top of the YMCA roof and left-handed jam, swing over left of the arete on that, being careful here not to loose footing (very bad fall if you did), and power over and up to the face again, above the roof.

Finish on YMCA Right Variation (5.6) to the edge or go 4' right on a ledge to the tree above Overtime, and rap from slings and a ring.

Location 

This route starts as for YMCA Right Variation, but once past the initial wide section down low, look for a left-leaning hand and finger crack that splits the right side of the dihedral... for 60 before ending.

Protection 

Rack to a #4 Camalot. The old style might be best.


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