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Start on the right side of the ledge that sits above a short chimney. Climb past five bolts while moving to the left occasionally to locate the next one. The bolts are quite spacious, but for a solid leader, it should not require extra gear.
If you have any doubts, bring an extra light rack of trad gear since a fall could be upwards of 35' or so.
5 bolts in about 130' so bring some small camming gear and stoppers too. It's not that runout with just the bolts though.
Julie on Village Idiot.
High on Village Idiot.
|Comments on Village Idiot
|By pete cogan|
Jul 29, 2002
Pitch 2 goes over the roof at 5.7, and you can put in some medium to large cams below it. However, that's it, and if you fall once on that roof -- where there is no pro -- you will be taking a long, potentially painful fall. The walk off is supereasy.
|By Larry Shaw|
May 29, 2004
The crux is between the second and third bolt..you can plug a medium cam 1"? there if you like. the runout sections are on 5.6 or easier climbing.
|By Casey Flynn|
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2008
Directly above Village Idiot there is a short, right leaning fist to OW crack that is quite strenuous. Anybody know what this is rated?
|By Jason Shatek|
Jun 21, 2009
Casey, I believe that's Staircase Direct, it's in the Falcon guidebook, it's an 8.
Also, thought this climb was much easier than 5.9, more like 5.8.
I think this climb could be done on natural pro. The bolt placements are all next to cracks? If I do the climb on natural pro, will the FA let me chop the bolts?
|By Stewart M. Green|
Jun 24, 2009
The crack above is 5.8. A second pitch to the summit. There's a bolt somewhere up there too. As far as Village Idiot, you can fiddle in some small nuts. Feel free to do that. No bolt chopping however!
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
Seemed hard for the grade but I may have missed the easiest line. Hardest moves were near to bolts but I had to resort to Mr. Micawber's POV that "something will turn up" in between. Tried to avoid the strong gravitational pull rightwards where the climbing looks easier....