Village Idiot 

Pitch 2 goes over the roof at 5.7, and you can put in some medium to large cams below it. However, that's it, and if you fall once on that roof -- where there is no pro -- you will be taking a long, potentially painful fall. The walk off is supereasy.

The crux is between the second and third bolt..you can plug a medium cam 1"? there if you like. the runout sections are on 5.6 or easier climbing.

Directly above Village Idiot there is a short, right leaning fist to OW crack that is quite strenuous. Anybody know what this is rated?

Casey, I believe that's Staircase Direct, it's in the Falcon guidebook, it's an 8.

Also, thought this climb was much easier than 5.9, more like 5.8.

I think this climb could be done on natural pro. The bolt placements are all next to cracks? If I do the climb on natural pro, will the FA let me chop the bolts?

The crack above is 5.8. A second pitch to the summit. There's a bolt somewhere up there too. As far as Village Idiot, you can fiddle in some small nuts. Feel free to do that. No bolt chopping however!

Seemed hard for the grade but I may have missed the easiest line. Hardest moves were near to bolts but I had to resort to Mr. Micawber's POV that "something will turn up" in between. Tried to avoid the strong gravitational pull rightwards where the climbing looks easier....