The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.
All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Village Crags:
Featured Route For Village Crags
Cleptomania 5.12d International : Spain : ... : Campi Qui Pugui
Cleptomania is an excellent, sustained, technical wall climb, with several cruxes split by rests, but none so good that they diminish the endurance element. The rock is rather sharp, but on the other hand, its relatively un-polished.Boulder up to the dangerously high first bolt. Follow a vertical seam to a horizontal break, & make balancey moves to reach the diagonal rail. Work up the rail to slopey pockets and a shake. Move back left & up, via thin, sharp crimps and a sinker pocket, to an a...[more] Browse More Classics in International