Climbing near the upper parking lot.
The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.
High quality moderates abound along the upper tier, at crags like the ultra-popular Melafots, L'Isabel, & La Trona. The rock on the upper tier is not as monolothic as at the more famous crags below, but the smooth yellow stone is quite solid, fun to climb, and a nice relief for fingertips worn raw from the sharp crimps found elsewhere.
Great moderates are also found on the more consolidated & aesthetic stone of the lower tier, at crags such as Marges Upper & Lower, Can Gan Dionis, & Tonigros. While all of the cliffs named above face more or less South, shade can be found in various nooks at the right time of day. If all day shade is required, Reserve India is the best option other than the Valley Crags,
and offers a wide variety of grades. Can Ciriac gets afternoon shade, situated directly below the old Refugi.
Most of the cliffs tend to be vertical or close to it, with a few bulging roofs sprinkled in here and there. For overhanging routes, head to Campi, Ca La Boja, Rebotat Pinnacle, or the right end of the Melafots cliff. Slab enthusiasts won't want to miss Marges Upper or Can Gan Dionis.
All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.
Weather station 14.3 miles from here
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Village Crags
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Village Crags:
Featured Route For Village Crags
Pixapins 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Europe
: ... : Marges Lower
This classic, popular moderate offers stellar jugs on a steep wall almost the entire way, culminating in a balancey crux just below the anchor. Trad skills will come in handy for the flake encounter midway up.Follow the brief slab to a steep, corral-textured wall. Make big reaches between perfect jug pockets to a good flat edge in white stone. Traverse left via a flake on the prow to a short, left-facing groove and a good kneebar. Lieback the groove to a stance in an alcove, then bear hug th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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Panorama of the South-facing Village Crags.
A climber at Sector Campi Qui Pugui.