This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block just through the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block. But despite the sunny-sounding aspect, it's shaded by the Big Pine Wall block most of the day making it a nice route for those hot days.
Start out on chalked-up but not-so-positive holds to some decent holds for clipping the first few bolts. After the third bolt the climbing becomes steeper and a bit run-out to a difficult clip for the fourth bolt. Chalked up holds around the fourth bolt look appealing but don't offer much for a good clipping stance. Don't you love it when the crux of a route is clipping a bolt six feet above the last bolt?
Hint: The key to onsighting this route is opening your eyes and mind and using some very good holds that don't have chalk marks on them but are well in line with the route. Note, I did not heed my own advice.
This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block at the top of the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block.
5 bolts to anchors
|By lance hadfield|
Jun 15, 2010
FA Lance Hadfield this was the 1st route I bolted in El Rito and the 3rd route in the area
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Excellent route! There is a chain draw on the 4th bolt that makes "the crux" clip a bit easier.