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Vikings and Ghetto Blasters
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.8 from 8
votes
Routes in Antarctica
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Burning Grandma Bones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crematorium Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Elvis Shades Rule S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fabulous Gordini, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just Like Diocletian's Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Man-Bear-Pig S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moon Unit's Secret Shinto Ride S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Vikings and Ghetto Blasters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wild Turkeys S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 638 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Anderson on Jul 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This is sharp, like other nearby face routes. Clip the first bolt and work through very thin face moves for 3 more bolts. Use of the mono pocket may be necessary. Pull onto the ledge with slopers and continue on easier 5.10 climbing above.
Photos
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