Victim of Love 5.8
| 908 page views Good page?  |
Kirsten catching a rest on her first outdoor lead....
Add Photo Printer View
Description Climb up ledges that provide wierd mantel-ish moves. Grab some decent face holds. Continue up face to anchors using some horizontal cracks and face holds. Good climb to warm up on if you want to do Three easy pieces and/or squall. Just rememeber to do more than one lap!
Location Route right in front of you when you walk up on trail. Kind of looks like super blunt arete.
Protection Bolts to anchors
| Comments on Victim of Love |
|
By devkrev From: West Woodstock, VT Sep 18, 2010
| The upper part reminded me of the Gunks, except for the bolts, and the loose rock. |
By A.Javi.Gecko From: San Diego, CA Oct 8, 2012 rating: 5.8 X
| I climbed this route as a warm down this past weekend and found myself stressing out (and thus NOT warming down) the entire climb. In my opinion, THIS ROUTE IS NOT SAFE TO CLIMB. While a couple routes at lower Darth Vadar have SOME loose rocks, the top half of this route is VERY CHOSSY with several fist to microwave-sized blocks that are just waiting for someone to pull them down as well as an unavoidable torso-sized flake that wiggles while you hold onto it to clip the 4th(?) bolt. Victim of Love is situated between a popular 5.6 and a 5.7 and I see no reason to risk the safety of yourself, your partner and adjacent climbers simply because you'd rather climb a 5.8 than a slightly-easier route (like I unknowingly did). Ideally I'd like to see this route decommissioned to save climbers from confusion in the future. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 10, 2012
| i havent been on it in a couple years any one else have recent experience on this thing? the only route ive done up there this year was Danger 5.10a X and that seemed safer than this description haha... |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Oct 10, 2012 rating: 5.8
| I climbed this route about a month ago and it was not near as bad as that comment suggests. This route for the last three or so years has had some lose blocks on it but nothing like that comment. The blocks that have been there have been loose for a few years without coming out and are all well marked with a "X". If someone is willing to check it out and remove some of the loose blocks that would be much appreciated. None of the blocks are must use holds, I climbed the route easily while avoiding them... |
By Peter Jackson From: Rumney, NH Oct 13, 2012
| I climbed the route today. There are two scary loose blocks marked with X between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but it turns out they are cammed in place pretty tight (as in, I tried and failed to pull them out). I did not find the wiggly flake at the 4th bolt, but be careful. |
By A.Javi.Gecko From: San Diego, CA Dec 23, 2012 rating: 5.8 X
| Glad to hear some folks went to check it out and that the moving blocks don't appear to be falling anytime soon. I certainly overreacted but luckily multiple people went to make sure as there's no other way to find out and I wasn't exactly raring to test the route again. |
|