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Upper Darth Vadar
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Blustery Day S 
Danger T 
Frosted Flakes S 
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 
Squall S 
Three Easy Pieces S 
Victim of Love S 

Victim of Love 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 1,162
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Kirsten catching a rest on her first outdoor lead....

Description 

Climb up ledges that provide wierd mantel-ish moves. Grab some decent face holds. Continue up face to anchors using some horizontal cracks and face holds.
Good climb to warm up on if you want to do Three easy pieces and/or squall. Just rememeber to do more than one lap!


Location 

Route right in front of you when you walk up on trail. Kind of looks like super blunt arete.


Protection 

Bolts to anchors



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By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Sep 18, 2010

The upper part reminded me of the Gunks, except for the bolts, and the loose rock.

By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

I climbed this route as a warm down this past weekend and found myself stressing out (and thus NOT warming down) the entire climb. In my opinion, THIS ROUTE IS NOT SAFE TO CLIMB. While a couple routes at lower Darth Vadar have SOME loose rocks, the top half of this route is VERY CHOSSY with several fist to microwave-sized blocks that are just waiting for someone to pull them down as well as an unavoidable torso-sized flake that wiggles while you hold onto it to clip the 4th(?) bolt. Victim of Love is situated between a popular 5.6 and a 5.7 and I see no reason to risk the safety of yourself, your partner and adjacent climbers simply because you'd rather climb a 5.8 than a slightly-easier route (like I unknowingly did). Ideally I'd like to see this route decommissioned to save climbers from confusion in the future.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 10, 2012

i havent been on it in a couple years any one else have recent experience on this thing? the only route ive done up there this year was Danger 5.10a X and that seemed safer than this description haha...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this route about a month ago and it was not near as bad as that comment suggests. This route for the last three or so years has had some lose blocks on it but nothing like that comment. The blocks that have been there have been loose for a few years without coming out and are all well marked with a "X". If someone is willing to check it out and remove some of the loose blocks that would be much appreciated. None of the blocks are must use holds, I climbed the route easily while avoiding them...

By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 13, 2012

I climbed the route today. There are two scary loose blocks marked with X between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but it turns out they are cammed in place pretty tight (as in, I tried and failed to pull them out). I did not find the wiggly flake at the 4th bolt, but be careful.

By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Glad to hear some folks went to check it out and that the moving blocks don't appear to be falling anytime soon. I certainly overreacted but luckily multiple people went to make sure as there's no other way to find out and I wasn't exactly raring to test the route again.

By S. Neoh
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We did this route today even though it was pretty wet down low. The moves are not enjoyable but I would say it is far from being unsafe. One does not have to touch the "X" block at all. Stiff and awkward for sure for an .8. I do not think I will climb this one ever again.