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Schoolhouse Rock
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Interplanet Janet S 
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Schoolhouse Rock  S 
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Victim of Gravity S 
What's Your Function?  S 

Victim of Gravity 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2008
Page Views: 907
Submitted By: Damien on Nov 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Victim of Gravity (5.9), Riverside Quarry

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Well protected route with bolts often, protecting every more difficult move. Key holds around the crux section are bolted and glued in, giving the climb a weird feel.

Belay position is annoying as the ground level is all loose sand and very steep.

Location 

Start at the far right side of Schoolhouse Rock, up the loose sand/rock path. First bolt is 6' off the ground just above a slight lip.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rap rings


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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Skip the contrived start (harder than 5.10a) past the 1st bolt and start from the arete to make this no harder than 5.8. So-so climbing along cracks and loose features all cobbled together to make it semi-solid. Not PG-13 and not worth repeating.
By Bowens
From: Carlsbad, CA
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that this route is not PG13; it's bolted appropriately. However, I do think this route is definitely worth repeating. It involves slab climbing, short sections of crack climbing (finger and hand), and a little face climbing. For a short sport climb, it's a lot of fun!

Also, it seems like this would make a great gear lead as well; there appear to be tons of great gear placements throughout.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Nov 19, 2012

Pretty fun, I wish it kept going straight up instead of merging left at like the 4th? bolt.
By Matthew McMillan
From: Orange, CA
Jan 21, 2014

This was my 5th lead ever. I only realized the danger of a fall from the crux after I was on it. It's not super dangerous but you'll feel it if you're a noob like me. I loved the ledges that created undulating terrain - nothing like gym climbing. I also loved the variation provided by all the finger, hand, and fist jams. The last ten feet or so are almost all crack climbing, including the steepest section. There is a good place to stand below the rap ring anchors, making this a good route for a noob like me to break into the 5.10 range. (Some guides call this a 5.9)
By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Apr 8, 2014

I agree with Bowens, definitely worth a repeat. It has a pretty cool mix of styles for such a short route at the quarry. I've sport led it a couple times and trad led it once. It makes a really great trad lead for beginners since you can always chicken out and clip bolts. I also don't think it warrants the PG13 rating.