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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall
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5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Choss in America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Churning in the Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gumby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lion's Chair Start T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mane Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Morning Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ozone Hole S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sign of the Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tammy Bakker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Alan Watts 3/88 |
| Page Views: | 8,148 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is the ultimate prize on the Churning Buttress. Each winter hardmen flock to this site in search of 'good' (read: frigid) conditions for the redpoint. This is another great example of a route without holds. Sure, there are holds in spots, but in the business, you're basically slapping and sloping on pitiful ripples.
The route begins a few meters right of Churning, atop a flat boulder. Careful not to bump your head while surmounting the V0 boulder problem to reach the opening holds. The six easiest moves on the route are those leading up to the 3rd bolt. From here a good, but somewhat unnecessary rest gives you a chance to recoup for what is likely the most difficult bit of climbing. A tremendous amount of finger strength, skin, and a knob that one local compared to a medieval-mace, will be required to reach the excellent jugs right of the 5th bolt. The 4th bolt can be a bit tricky to clip if you're short. I recommend practicing the clipping stance on TR, as a blown clip here would certainly send you to the hospital.
Shake what you can at the 5th bolt. The next crux is downright heinous without the proper beta. Ask a local if you prefer, or spend 3 days trading finger skin and motivation for 'a sense of accomplishment' like I did. After clipping the 6th bolt, the climbing is relatively casual, but still very technical with big moves, ending with large jugs and a dubious rest at the Churning anchor. Again, rest the best you can...
Traverse right to the hanging arete. The traverse is rather technical, very pumpy, and culminates in some desparate slaps up the arete to an excellent jug at the 9th bolt. You should plan to hang out here for a while, as it will be a mad dash to the anchor from here.
The next 30 feet are widely regarded as the actual crux of the route. This section is doubtless the redpoint crux, but I felt the moves at the 4th bolt were much more difficult. I won't give anything away, but it would be useful to have at least a master's degree in arete technique. I would argue the entire upper arete, from the Churning anchor to the Fish chains is about 12d. Its probably less powerful than Split Image (12c/d), but a bit longer and more involved technically.
The route begins a few meters right of Churning, atop a flat boulder. Careful not to bump your head while surmounting the V0 boulder problem to reach the opening holds. The six easiest moves on the route are those leading up to the 3rd bolt. From here a good, but somewhat unnecessary rest gives you a chance to recoup for what is likely the most difficult bit of climbing. A tremendous amount of finger strength, skin, and a knob that one local compared to a medieval-mace, will be required to reach the excellent jugs right of the 5th bolt. The 4th bolt can be a bit tricky to clip if you're short. I recommend practicing the clipping stance on TR, as a blown clip here would certainly send you to the hospital.
Shake what you can at the 5th bolt. The next crux is downright heinous without the proper beta. Ask a local if you prefer, or spend 3 days trading finger skin and motivation for 'a sense of accomplishment' like I did. After clipping the 6th bolt, the climbing is relatively casual, but still very technical with big moves, ending with large jugs and a dubious rest at the Churning anchor. Again, rest the best you can...
Traverse right to the hanging arete. The traverse is rather technical, very pumpy, and culminates in some desparate slaps up the arete to an excellent jug at the 9th bolt. You should plan to hang out here for a while, as it will be a mad dash to the anchor from here.
The next 30 feet are widely regarded as the actual crux of the route. This section is doubtless the redpoint crux, but I felt the moves at the 4th bolt were much more difficult. I won't give anything away, but it would be useful to have at least a master's degree in arete technique. I would argue the entire upper arete, from the Churning anchor to the Fish chains is about 12d. Its probably less powerful than Split Image (12c/d), but a bit longer and more involved technically.
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