Viagra Falls 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Leo Henson & Albert Newman 10/98 |
| Submitted By: | Joe Irwin on Jan 2, 2004 |
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Joe shows how it's done.
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Description All the holds are obvious, due to the excessive chalk. First three bolts are all .12 moves. Start on a ledge; you can go either straight up to the first bolt, which is more difficult, or move right off the deck up to a ledge of good holds and travers to the first bolt. After the fourth bolt, the pressure eases up considerably (maybe .7 or .8), with longer distances between bolts.
Protection 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Aaron flying up Viagra Falls on a beautiful Red Ro...
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Aaron clipping.
(10/30/07)
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Deanna sending!
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me leading Viagra Falls on the Panty Wall in Red R...
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 6, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| A very good little line- definitely all business off the ground through the fourth bolt, then it eases off considerably. The third bolt will feel quite high for the shorter folks- be prepared to either reach high or climb through.
Note: Stick clipping the second bolt will prevent a possible groundfall at the crux- I've heard of more than one person hitting the ledge attempting the move. |
By Pascal Ripoche
From: Pittsburgh PA
Jan 19, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| crux on second bolt i.e. possible ground (ledge) fall!!! though if you stick clip the second bolt you're not actually leading it : one star only!!!! |
By Killing In The Name Of
Jan 19, 2012
| Hilarious, the old stick clip debate again.
Sport climbing's ethical boiling point...who will survive the octagon of...ah, who gives a shit, it's a sport route. |
By AustenE
Jan 12, 2013
| Pretty good. fall would be possible if your belayer is too stoned. I think the 5th bolt has either came completely out or is still able to move an inch in and out of the rock, but its easy climbing. |
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c
| I fell at the second bolt before clipping and was completely uninjured. My foot hit the small ledge but otherwise no big deal. By the way, not sure if the bolting has changed at all, but after the last bolt on the steep part of the wall it was ~25ft to the anchors without any bolts on 5.7ish terrain. Just a heads up. |
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