|The Dark Side
This route ascends continous crack systems to the left of Line of Strength (5.12c s) and two lines left of Two Hearts. Identifiable by a short right facing dihedral, a thin crack running off the start up into this dihedral and the dihedral capped by a small overlap-roof. Fire through and enjoy the bouldery crux in the thin crack over the first overlap just off the ground. After pulling left through the second overlap atop the dihedral the climbing eases back as one jogs along the crack system up to the anchors. One and a half stars.
8 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. Crux is off the ground so a spot or stick clip might be required.
|By david goldstein|
Sep 21, 2006
Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt; anyone not solid highballing V3 will probably be uncomfortable otherwise. A great change of pace for those with sore tips, the crux first twenty feet are technical crack climbing. The rest of the climb is not quite as easy as the guidebook implies, though it is much easier than the start.