Via Zäch 7a+ (6c/A0)
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Lauber, Müller, Vogel 1990 |
Page Views: | 521 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Dan Flynn on Sep 11, 2012 |
Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Access Issue: Betlispfeiler closed.
Details
Local politician has placed an unofficial (but fairly official-looking) sign saying climbing prohibited on this sector, effective fall 2012. 'Danger of rockfall'... for whom, not sure.
While not legally binding, please think twice before risking everyone's access by climbing here.
While not legally binding, please think twice before risking everyone's access by climbing here.
Description
Varied and physical face climbing.
Abseil from the parking lot abseil-piste; 2 x 60 will get you down in 2 raps. Start the route directly at the drop-down point.
P1 6b Dirty large flake to a shrub, then pull some hard moves to the right across the face, then back up left. Long draws helpful. Finish at 2 bolt anchor, no chain.
P2 "6+" Face climbing up to a large ledge.
P3 7a+ / 6c A0 Three powerful moves on good holds up to a stance, then really fun 6c climbing above. Super pitch, very closely bolted.
P4 5c same finish as UFO 60, blocky and a bit greasy, but fun.
Abseil from the parking lot abseil-piste; 2 x 60 will get you down in 2 raps. Start the route directly at the drop-down point.
P1 6b Dirty large flake to a shrub, then pull some hard moves to the right across the face, then back up left. Long draws helpful. Finish at 2 bolt anchor, no chain.
P2 "6+" Face climbing up to a large ledge.
P3 7a+ / 6c A0 Three powerful moves on good holds up to a stance, then really fun 6c climbing above. Super pitch, very closely bolted.
P4 5c same finish as UFO 60, blocky and a bit greasy, but fun.
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