|Via UBSA (aka Llobet/Bertomeu) || |
A classic line up an imposing face (the "Aguja Superior"), but easier than it looks from below. Faces south / west. Surprisingly solid rock, but take great care not to lob rocks on to passing cars.
1 150', 5.4 Climb easily on the left side of the pillar to a belay beside the wire nettting.
2 150', 5.6 After a tricky initial move, head diagonally rightwards on to the broken rib.
3 200' 5.2 Easily up the rib to a terrace, then scramble right up a grassy gully to a belay below the main wall.
4 150' 5.5 Climb up and right across the wall, passing a small groove (some fixed gear). Keep heading right round the arete to belay on a big ledge below an obvious groove.
5 110' 5.9+ Climb the groove which is quite polished at the crux (pegs and a bolt).
6 80' 5.7 Climb cracks left of the belay to a steeper section. Follow a fault line diagonally rightwards, and from a rather bendy peg make a steep swing round the arete in a grand position to a sloping ledge.
7. 120' 5.6 Continue right to a groove with a steep start, then climb more easily on very weathered rock to the top.
Descend by scrambling leftwards (facing in) along a terrace below the more broken upper cliff, passing a short steeper rock step. Then walk down rocky slopes well to the left of the cliff, skirting round the railway tunnel, until back on the main road.
From the parking spot above the gorge (allegedly popular with car thieves), walk down the main road through two tunnels. Start from the old road bridge at the base of the lefthand pillar, right of a small building.
This route has a split personality - it can't decide whether it's sport or traditional. Carry a rack to back up the odd bits of fixed gear and several long extenders to reduce drag.