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Via UBSA (aka Llobet/Bertomeu)
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Mascarat Gorge
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El Pajaron (Via Sulfada) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Via UBSA (aka Llobet/Bertomeu) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,148 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Davies UK on Oct 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
A classic line up an imposing face (the "Aguja Superior"), but easier than it looks from below. Faces south / west. Surprisingly solid rock, but take great care not to lob rocks on to passing cars.
1 150', 5.4 Climb easily on the left side of the pillar to a belay beside the wire nettting.
2 150', 5.6 After a tricky initial move, head diagonally rightwards on to the broken rib.
3 200' 5.2 Easily up the rib to a terrace, then scramble right up a grassy gully to a belay below the main wall.
4 150' 5.5 Climb up and right across the wall, passing a small groove (some fixed gear). Keep heading right round the arete to belay on a big ledge below an obvious groove.
5 110' 5.9+ Climb the groove which is quite polished at the crux (pegs and a bolt).
6 80' 5.7 Climb cracks left of the belay to a steeper section. Follow a fault line diagonally rightwards, and from a rather bendy peg make a steep swing round the arete in a grand position to a sloping ledge.
7. 120' 5.6 Continue right to a groove with a steep start, then climb more easily on very weathered rock to the top.
Descend by scrambling leftwards (facing in) along a terrace below the more broken upper cliff, passing a short steeper rock step. Then walk down rocky slopes well to the left of the cliff, skirting round the railway tunnel, until back on the main road.
1 150', 5.4 Climb easily on the left side of the pillar to a belay beside the wire nettting.
2 150', 5.6 After a tricky initial move, head diagonally rightwards on to the broken rib.
3 200' 5.2 Easily up the rib to a terrace, then scramble right up a grassy gully to a belay below the main wall.
4 150' 5.5 Climb up and right across the wall, passing a small groove (some fixed gear). Keep heading right round the arete to belay on a big ledge below an obvious groove.
5 110' 5.9+ Climb the groove which is quite polished at the crux (pegs and a bolt).
6 80' 5.7 Climb cracks left of the belay to a steeper section. Follow a fault line diagonally rightwards, and from a rather bendy peg make a steep swing round the arete in a grand position to a sloping ledge.
7. 120' 5.6 Continue right to a groove with a steep start, then climb more easily on very weathered rock to the top.
Descend by scrambling leftwards (facing in) along a terrace below the more broken upper cliff, passing a short steeper rock step. Then walk down rocky slopes well to the left of the cliff, skirting round the railway tunnel, until back on the main road.
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