This is suitable for a beginner's first climb, and takes little time to complete and descend. The route has several sections of roped scrambling, and follows a crack to the first belay with a slung "hourglass" thread for protection along the way. The second lead is scrambling and very easy 5th class, which ends at another thread for a belay. The final pitch is 5.2-5.3 which is the best one of the climb and involves a bit of stemming in a dihedral.
Two 60 foot rappels are required to descend from the SW edge of the tower. Both are overhanging, free rappels. Two 60 meter ropes would make this a breeze to descend.
This route is the first encountered from the path described in the approach to the tower from the Scoiattoli Hut. It begins near the right side, viewed from the NW.
Mostly natural protection, and longer slings are necessary. A light rack is advisable, though.
|Comments on Via Normale (Northeast Wall)
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 10, 2013
Additional commentary. This is a really fun route with a couple of very exciting rappels from a tree near the S. edge of the West face. Although the "Dolomite standard" rope is 50 meters, a 60 meter rope makes many of the descents less tricky in reaching subsequent rappel anchors.