Via de Tots  5.11a A0 R

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 13 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.11a A0 [details] FA:  Season:  spring to autumn Submitted By:  manuel rangel on Oct 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Finishing our ninth pitch on Via de Tots.

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Description 

The route is long, steep slab with long distances between protection at times. The crux climbs steep grooves/canalones on spicy bolting. But, they're all new bolts unlike the buriles/rivets used on the FA. The climb is long and requires routefinding and good skills with placing protection. Helmets mandatory!

Location 

Begin left of center on the south face of the Pollego Inferior (smaller left peak). Two routes begin here, this one is the rightmost one. Near the base of the wall is a single old bolt: begin climbing right @ 15' . The start is up indistinct but noticeable holds up the steep slabby face; a few pitons and cords line the start. Descent is easiest to walk down the East face to the narrow notch connecting both sides and turn right to the base of wall. Better yet, rap the route.

Protection 

small to med nuts, single rack of cams from small to #3, anchors on every pitch are new rap rings, many new bolts and old pitons.

Photos of Via de Tots Slideshow

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Marc on the crux pitch heading for the canalones a...	BETA PHOTO: The east face of Pedraforca. The Refugi is located...	This is a photo of Pedraforca's 500m south face, t...
BETA PHOTO: This was the previous generation of protection on ...	Marc and I near the summit.	Getting ready for the final two pitches after lunc...
Here is Mark descending the Pollego Inferior ridge...