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Via Comatose Amigo 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 3,985
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 7, 2001

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Climbers on Via Comatose Amigo and Jackpot.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Via Comatose Amigo is the route immediately to the right of Deuces Wild and starts off on some slabby grey rock. Surprisingly better than it looks, the line follows up the grey stuff for 50 feet or so, and then pulls onto a flat ledge that looks directly right to the Jackpot face. Follow the pegmatite for a few clips, slip left, a bit, and amble up to the anchors. This route is actually a great kick. The moves are enjoyable, the stone is excellent (Yes, Harry, even pegmatite can be solid!), and the route is well protected. However, I find the clip leading into the pegmatite to be a bit weird if you are not tall, which I am not. I use an extendo clip here that makes the clip very comfortable. Two stars for sure.

NB: this is not a very good top rope route since the line wanders a bit. Also, there is a very rusty old pin at the ledge preceding the pegmatite, but I have no idea who climbed here before, or what the line used to be.

Protection 

QDs only. You will get a baker's dozen clips in 115 feet of climbing. A double bolt anchor exists at the top. However, "Hear-Of-Fail-Not" to quote the courts. This 40m route needs double ropes to descend!!!!! Not even a 60m rope will work. It is possible to pick up a second rap stance at Jackpot, but a direct descent goes on double ropes only.


Photos of Via Comatose Amigo Slideshow Add Photo
Carol cruising to the top, 7-23-09.
Carol cruising to the top, 7-23-09.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 8, 2002

You can actually get off this route with a 60m rope without too much risk to life and limb. Once you've cleaned your draws on rappel...you can just reach the first bolt at the end of your line...just swing around the corner to the right. Come off rap in the little gully/chimney and its only a 4th class scramble for 10-15ft to get down. Not really advisable, but not seriously sketchy either if you've only got one rope. --Great moderate route!
By Steve Kelly
Feb 22, 2002

Really fun route. Did it a little while back and had a blast. A lot more vertical than it seems from the ground with great exposure as you take the ledge below the pegmatite. I was just able to reach the clip at the ledge (I'm 5'11" with a pretty long reach). One question, does anybody know what the route is that goes off to the right? Just curious.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 22, 2002

It's "Jackpot" and is listed here.
By Hill
May 31, 2002

This is a very good route with a sustained nature, great variety of moves and an airy feel. To me it seemed unlike many of the other routes at the High Wire Crag. I couldn't identify a 5.10b/c crux, but rather found 4 or 5 5.9/5.10 moves. This route is absolutely "top of the line" and my new favorite at the High Wire!
By James Young
Jun 24, 2002

A friend and I climbed this route on Sunday and found it to be a great line. Perfect for people who are getting into 5.10'ish sport routes. This was my first time climbing at CCC and chose High Wire from a recommendation. I had a blast BTW. Anyway, unless I missed the crux by some odd twist of fate, I too found the 10 b/c rating a tad high. Of course we all have our opinions on ratings but it felt more like a 9+/10 to me. As far as the rope thing goes. My climbing partner and I tried lowering with one rope and also tried rapping with two. By a total consensus of two, we both think rapping with two ropes is the best way to come down. Although, cleaning the draws while rapping was a bit awkward.
By Scott Duke
Oct 15, 2002

This route is totally height/reach-dependent. For those 6'0" and over, it's a solid and fun 9+. For those of us vertically-challenged (5'6"), the first crux move is the clip from the ledge at around the 7th or 8th bolt. It's a totally committing move with some fall potential. Hint: there is a jug up and to the left and a nice right foot hold. Just don't look down! The second crux is the lateral move to the anchors. Very thin but a very well protected fall. Great route. Would NOT recommend it for a TR. Follow and clean and...Yes a 60m will reach down to the ramp, but not the trail.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 7, 2003

Beware, when you rappel this route, there is a horizontal edge on a large flake with a bolt on it on the route to the R that can saw through your rope. It cut all the way through the sheath on Brian's rope.
By Terry Gill
From: Boulder
Aug 21, 2003

I would rate this about 5.10(a). You can lower off into the corner on the right with one 60 mm rope and boulder down from the slab.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 22, 2003

5.10a may be close to correct if you can reach through the bear hug at mid height. I've done it with substantially shorter climbers and got the impression that their moves were harder than that.
By John Fields
Aug 6, 2004

Very fun climb. This may be off route, but I found good hands and feet just left of the face of the crux bulge and stemmed out to get a great foot on the small chickenhead near the nose of the arete. It would definitely be more sketchy to face climb straight up the bulge, but the way I did it, the grade of the route was no more than 10a, if that. No problem getting down with one 60m rope. Just tie knots in the ends when toproping (I think it's ok to toprope -- I did it) or rapping. You'll get down low enough on one 60m for an easy scramble to descend the last 15 feet or so.
By John Fields
Aug 13, 2004

I wanted to make a correction to my comment above about toproping this climb. If you TR it without the climber's end of the rope clipped into directionals above, there is potential for quite a pendulum if you peel off. I toproped it with directionals above.
By Nate Oakes
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route! Now my second-favorite at High Wire, behind 5th of July. Feels quite exposed at the crux, which for me was the "bear hug" section that Richard mentions above. A good variety of climbing - slabby moves, an offwidth crack, and juggy moves for the rest. Pretty straightforward, just watch out and don't wander onto Jackpot - at one point the bolts for Jackpot are within an arm's reach of Amigo's bolts.

The bolt clip with the big reach everyone is talking about (7th or 8th) can be clipped from the ledge if you are tall or have a large ape index. I'm 5'-10" with an average reach, and I couldn't clip it by about 3 inches. However, if you look left you'll find some good holds that will allow you to climb to a reasonably secure position above the ledge for this clip. The piton at this ledge still remains, but it's pretty impractical if you're using the bolts.
By Kevin Wood
May 24, 2008

Not sure if this route is 115 ft. I think it is more 125 ft. Someone correct me if they disagree. Near the top I got confused about the line and 'zig-zagged' one draw (I though I was suppose to clip into Jackpot's anchors) and I ran out of rope...and I have a 70 meter. So close but just short.
By JellieBean
From: Lakewood
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is some lose stuff at the bottom of the route. Be careful about what you pull hard on. I recommend a helmet for the belayer too.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 28, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I could only describe this route as fun. All of the moves are 9+ to 10a. It's well protected, airy, and provides the full variety pack of moves. You'll have just enough with the 70m meter... not to worry.
By Rob Westfall
From: Denver, CO
Jul 14, 2009

Seems to be a discussion between the 70m and 60m camps. I'll second A. Coward since I was able to get up and down with a 60 without too much risk
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Excellent route, incredibly varied, slopers, jugs, crimps multiple different types of rock well protected.

Rope, I have done this climb with both a 60m and a 70m rope.

Knot the end regardless of your choice, a 60m will require the leader to belay the second sitting up 30ft on the right side. Or the second will need to do some climbing before tying in. A 70m will comfortably put both the leader and the belayer on the ground in front of the climb at the same time.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Sep 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Gee Keith, all those superlatives and only one star? Can't wait to read how you describe a 3-star route. Actually, I think this is one. I couldn't find many faults with it, nor any moves harder than 10a. Sustained, yet not pumpy. Highly recommended. (BTW, shouldn't it be "Vaya Comatose Amigo" ?
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

My stars and description of routes are two very different things.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 26, 2011

I seem to remember burning a hole in my chalkbag with a hot drill bit on this one, then the bit hit my leg, caught my attention. That quartzy pegmatite is murder on bits, it dulled the bit so much that the tip of the bit blew right out.
By Yannacone
Oct 19, 2012

Excellente… great route and interesting crux move. I grabbed a large chockstone that shifted a bit but seemed solid. As for grade, I would agree that 10a seems more reasonable, and I would also agree that the first bolt once you get into the pegmatite is a bit awkward and go go gadget arm stretcher. Rope length, I used a 60m and barely made it. My partner had to climb up the gully for a bit while holding a few feet of tail to lower me safely, then some down climbing and I was back on the dirt. Hard to clean as this route creates a pendulum pulling you to the right into the gully.

If you decide to use anything less than 70m, be CAREFUL, we witnessed a FALL by the next party in line for this route. We gave them fair warning of our 60m barely reaching and they proceeded to climb with a 50m. We started up People’s Choice, and I looked over after hearing a shriek and scream and watched a climber fall and then bounce and skid down the lower slab to the deck. Pretty sure the rope just feed right through the belayer’s device. The kid had a broken R ankle and it took quite the effort to carry him down the 4th class to the road.
By B. Smith
From: Englewood, CO
Jul 4, 2014

After doing this route again today for the third time, I think that it is a pretty poor quality. There are a bunch of loose holds and many of the moves are awkward or just not fun. Nothing too hard, just not fun.

I did use a 70m rope, and it just got me to the ground. If a 60m rope works, you may have to do some downclimbing on an easy slab.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Outstanding route! Definitely one of the best at High Wire. Felt 5.9 to me but I'm tall. Someone under 6-feet tall may find this more difficult.