Via Claudia 5c+  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Alex Arnold + Martin Tönz 1985 Submitted By:  Dan Flynn on Oct 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Early pitches

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Description 

Moderate slab + ridge climbing up the south ridge of Bergseeschijen.

First 3 pitches 5c - 5c+ hold all the difficulties, with fairly consistent crimping and slab climbing to good belay stances. All very well bolted.

Next two pitches 4c - 5b also well-bolted, quite straightforward.

Joins the normal route for the last 4 -5 pitches up to the summit, bolted belays and a very few bolts on the ridge.

Descent by following the blue-white trail down to the east ridge, abseil off 3x 25 m or walk down.

Location 

Start is almost visible from the hut. Head directly up hill, passing the left of the two small "Vorbau" formations which lie below the south ridge. The start for all the south ridge climbs is up on a ledge which begins at the top of a steep saddle. You will see some of the bolts and chains, and route names are marked in faded paint.

Protection 

Bolts for first 5p, gear on the ridge. Cams 0.3 - 2 and nuts.

Photos of Via Claudia 5c+ Slideshow

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Up on the ridge

Focus. K placing gear for the first time, on lead