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 ADVANCED
Bergseeschijen
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Via Claudia 5c+ T,S 

Via Claudia 5c+ 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alex Arnold + Martin Tönz 1985
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Oct 27, 2012

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Early pitches

Description 

Moderate slab + ridge climbing up the south ridge of Bergseeschijen.

First 3 pitches 5c - 5c+ hold all the difficulties, with fairly consistent crimping and slab climbing to good belay stances. All very well bolted.

Next two pitches 4c - 5b also well-bolted, quite straightforward.

Joins the normal route for the last 4 -5 pitches up to the summit, bolted belays and a very few bolts on the ridge.

Descent by following the blue-white trail down to the east ridge, abseil off 3x 25 m or walk down.


Location 

Start is almost visible from the hut. Head directly up hill, passing the left of the two small "Vorbau" formations which lie below the south ridge. The start for all the south ridge climbs is up on a ledge which begins at the top of a steep saddle. You will see some of the bolts and chains, and route names are marked in faded paint.


Protection 

Bolts for first 5p, gear on the ridge. Cams 0.3 - 2 and nuts.



Photos of Via Claudia 5c+ Slideshow Add Photo
Up on the ridge
Up on the ridge
Focus. K placing gear for the first time, on lead
Focus. K placing gear for the first time, on lead
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