Veterans With Vertigo  5.12- R

942 page views Good page? (1 like)

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.12- [details] FA:  Topher and Patience Donahue and Steve Monks, 5/2001 Season:  suprisingly good shade temps in summer Submitted By:  Jay Brown on Jul 23, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Updated topo.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The crux is on the 6th pitch and is one of the best face pitches I've done down there! I don't know why there isn't more spray about this route.

P1. Climb thin .9+ on face/corner at left or scramble higher up right and climb a 5.8 corner to same belay, 100'.

P2. Climb straight up 100' of .10+ "reachy" fingers and hands to left traverse at grassy ledges to wide laybacks to belay. It is almost a full 70m!

P3. Stay left up the corner system past "techy stem corner (harder version of the "red dihedral" pitch on "No Country For Old Men", stay left over short corner roof with fingers to stance at huge flake. "The Crapper Belay", 180'.

P4. Go up short, .10, facey climbing to huge "walk-off" ledge, 100'.

P5. Head up right towards an acute, 12" deep, hands corner that is about 30' long to some easy varied climbing to a bolt/1 piece belay below the obviously good, pewter colored headwall, 180'.

P6. "Money Pitch"! Crank through the bolts and pins and a couple tiny placements for about 70-80' on perfect, crimpy, face climbing, 80'.

P7. Clip a bolt and continute up and left through some .11a R moves to blocky rock just next to and right of huge peg band till you see a bolt in the peg, go left across .10 move and up to ledge on left, 150'.

P8. Climb crappier rock straight up a left-facing corner for 35', then wander up right to huge ledge. Then go up 5th class to top out, 120'.

Location 

Scramble up 200-300' about 100' left of the "Comic" buttress.

Protection 

A standard rack with extra small.
There are bolts and pins on the crux with a couple tiny placements. There is 1 semi-hanging belay, all ledges at other belays.

Photos of Veterans With Vertigo Slideshow

Add Photo

Top of 2nd.	Following 3rd.	Crux!
The last pitch.	Following the crux.