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Vertigo T,S 

Vertigo 

C2-

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus: A0 [details]
FA: John Knight, Kelly Farris, Bryan Caroll, Mark Sensenbach - Winter 2011
Season: any
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: John Knight on Oct 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The hook move.

Description 

Bishop Peak's best aid route? Maybe Bishop Peak's only aid route. Bring your aid tools and don't forget a hook. To reduce rope drag, set up an interim anchor at the edge of the lowest roof. Clip into the anchor, then pull the rope through the draws and drop it back down to your belayer. Enjoy the exposure as you weight your aiders and lean back behind you to clip the first bolt on the upper roof. It's a real "pucker"!

More info. here: centralcoastclimbing.blogspot....

Location 

Start in the lowest cave and work your way upside down out the first roof.

Protection 

Draws, slings, hooks. You'll figure it out when you get there.


Photos of Vertigo Slideshow Add Photo
Vertigo.
Vertigo.
JK replacing bolts. Someone had started the projec...
JK replacing bolts. Someone had started the projec...
Cruisin' the bathook NBD
Cruisin' the bathook NBD

Comments on Vertigo Add Comment
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By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 23, 2012
rating: C2-

The picture doesn't show how overhanging this route really is!
This route is great for practicing steep aid, cleaning and free hanging jugging. With a load of aid and free gear the hike took us an hour at a relaxed pace. Lots of poison oak after the left turn at the bench by the false summit.
By John Knight
Jul 24, 2012

Great video Aaron. Thanks for posting. I couldn't help but see those bolts and think, "Hey, I recognize that bolt!"

Looks like that sling in the middle's getting a bit manky. Only a matter of time before some budding aid climber clips into it and goes, "I think this will hold. Oh, shhhhiiiii-----------!!!!!!"

Also, I see the rivet hanger has disappeared. All the better. I'm tempted to pull out a few of those good bolts and replace them with old, 1/4" buttonheads and Leeper Hangers. If a few hangers disappeared that would make it even better. Just a few, don't strip them all!
Kelly, Raleigh & Mark helped me replace the bolts ...
Kelly, Raleigh & Mark helped me replace the bolts and finish the upper overhang.


This is my favorite Kelly photo. While setting up ...
This is my favorite Kelly photo. While setting up the route, Kelly would stop and take phone calls to set up new jobs. Fortunately he didn't drop his cell phone - again!


Raleigh demonstrating the rarely used "spread...
Raleigh demonstrating the rarely used "spread eagle technique".


Aid climbing can get a bit messy sometimes.
Aid climbing can get a bit messy sometimes.


Quit goofing off Kelly, those bolts don't drill th...
Quit goofing off Kelly, those bolts don't drill themselves!
By Ken Klis
Sep 20, 2012
rating: A0

FA was Ed Keefe back around 1990.

He borrowed my bolt kit for this and I should not of lent it out. Bolt ladders are not very useful 40 feet off the ground -- these are more appropriate for connecting major features on say a 2000' wall or such.

Weird when you see an FA claimed 20+ years after the FA.

The bolt ladders at Cerro Cabrillo (#3) detract much without any worthy benefit too.