|New Vice Area
The crux of this route is not slipping off the polished holds. Follow the line of bolts on the arete to the top using the sparkling polished holds en route.
This is the arete between Goofed On Skunk Weed and Pandemonium.
5 or so bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own equipment for top roping.
From: Charlottesville, VA
Jul 31, 2007
I like this route. I'm 5'8" and some moves are a little challenge for a 5.8, but fun.
|By Mike Frost|
Jun 6, 2010
I've always enjoyed what I take to be the crux move on this climb. I do wonder what the route must have been like back when the moves on the arete weren't on foot holds worn polished by years of traffic. As a consequence it's either a little dicey for a new leader, or a little thrilling, depending on your philosophy.
Jul 11, 2010
Should be renamed Butter-Coated-Teflon Arete.
|By Blake K|
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It'd be a little more fun if it weren't so slick...
|By Dakota S.|
Sep 28, 2013
This is not a 5.8. I would honestly say with the polished holds and crimpy moves, this would be a 5.9+. I am well within the 5.10 range and some have been easier than this. This is an underrated route but is also a lot of fun. Just prepare