Great route that can easily be seen from camp. The first pitch and a half share Triple Overhangs, when you reach the arching fist crack these routes split the Overhangs goes left into the dihedral, Vertical Smile stays in the crack. Follow this crack until it goes into a small left facing corner where the climbing thins out and some technical stemming comes into play. Pull the roof and continue up and right, pass two bolts (we set up a belay at the second bolt). From here go up and right some runout climbing (5.6) leads you to a right facing corner the gear gets better here. At the top of the corner pull the roof by sweet hand jams. Continue up eventually joining the last pitch of the Undone Book. Follow the obvious line to the top.
There aren't many sizable ledges on this route; bring enough gear with you to make belays as you go, and be prepared to be hanging in your harness with ever-increasing exposure at each belay. We did this climb in 4 pitches. For what it's worth I thought the 5.10a rating was about right on (when compared to other 10a's such as Mexican Crack). It's all there and the pro is good on the cruxes.
Double set of cams up to #3 Camalot one #4 Camalot, small nuts for the first crux, a few fist size hexs wouldn't hurt the cause either.
Sep 4, 2006
The stemming corner protects very well and pulling onto that face gives wild exposure. If you trend left towards Triple Overhangs the climbing kinda reminds me of an easier version of the patina climbing throughout the Viewing on the Coffin buttress but with much much more exposure. The crux of Triple Overhangs felt a lot easier than this one but with the same grade so once you're through this the Vertical Overhangs is all cake.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Jun 26, 2007
Wow. The stemming crux is wild, sustained, and committing. It's funny that the triple overhang crux is supposed to be the same grade, when they feel so different.
Jul 20, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unreal! Two distinct cruxes -- the thin stemming on the third pitch and pulling the roof at the top of the fourth. The roof felt stout for .10a, but the jams are solid and there is the corner to help you out. Get on it!
Aug 18, 2008
If you traverse back to the regular Triple Overhangs route from above the stemming corner, that variation is called "The Vertical Overhangs"...this is what Alto and Wheeler climbed. Wyatt & Dockery freed the stemming corner and then added the 2 virgin pitches to the face above.