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Vertical Epic 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pete Paredes & Chris Miller, September 2003
Page Views: 3,224
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Where it becomes Vertical Epic.

Description 

Interesting face climbing up a vertical face littered with positive holds that goes over several small roofs/overlaps to a finish up a flared corner system. It ends on a spacious ledge with anchors and great view of the surrounding area.

Perhaps the best route of it's grade at the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.


Location 

The center of three bolted routes that goes over several small roofs.


Protection 

7 bolts, ring anchors



Photos of Vertical Epic Slideshow Add Photo
moments before an involuntary Sharma yell
moments before an involuntary Sharma yell
Scott Nomi on top rope, approaching the first overhang.
Scott Nomi on top rope, approaching the first over...
Shadow climbing. Late afternoon lighting on Vertical Epic.
Shadow climbing. Late afternoon lighting on Vertic...
Looking up through the roofs on Vertical Epic.
Looking up through the roofs on Vertical Epic.
Ben surmounts the crux roof.
Ben surmounts the crux roof.
Chris Owen leading, photo by Manila Angileri.
Chris Owen leading, photo by Manila Angileri.
Pete on Vertical Epic (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. (Photo by Brad Singer).
Pete on Vertical Epic (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinn...
Ben surmounts the first overhang.
Ben surmounts the first overhang.
Comments on Vertical Epic Add Comment
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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This one could be the best 10a at HVP.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Jan 7, 2008

Sorry Chris for ignoring this one during the day we all ran into each other at HVP. I would love to give this one a spin! Soooooo, you're saying this one is better than 'Ricochet'?? :)

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It's definitely in the running!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great powerful and athletic route. If you're 6ft the clips will be easier. It may be better than Ricochet in quality of moves - but not quality of rock.

By Chris Norwood
From: San Diego, CA
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a fun route! I liked this a little more than Ricochet and felt it was more consistant and sustained for the grade. Clips certainly easier if you're a little taller, but still should be manageable regardless. Highly recommended.

By PrrdyLady
From: Riverside, CA
Jul 3, 2012

I'm 5'2" and found the clipping to be no problem actually, only a slight reach. Great sequence but ramdon anchor placement.