Vergin' on Perversion 5.11c R
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | DeMallie & Hare - 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Nov 12, 2005 |
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The reach at the second bolt on the arête (5th bol...
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Description Vergin' on Perversion climbs the arete just right of the obvious Perversion dihedral system. The line is a bit contrived in places, but the rock and climbing is brillant. Two or three stars for the first three pitches for sure.
P1: Scramble up and left on some ledges and start up a thin crack with two or three bolts. About 50' up you can step right, following a line of bolts around the arete. Belay on an obvious ledge at a single bolt and some gear. 110' 5.11a.
P2: Climb a short (30') dihedral. It would be sensible to link this with either P1 or P3. Belay on a ledge. 5.9.
P3: Follow the line of bolts back out to the arete, and eventually around the corner (crux). There are two 5.11 sections on this pitch. Belay at two bolts. 115' Quickdraws only for this pitch.
P4: Wander up and right, passing a tree on your left, on easy ground. Perform an unprotected 5.8ish move at the arete (lots of lichen here), then step up and slightly left to clip the lone bolt on this pitch. An easy 5.10 face move gains easy climbing to the top. 120' 5.10a.
Protection Single set of cams to #0.75 Camalot, wires, 10 draws.
Near the top of the 10 approach. I was getting rop...
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Hand traversing right to set up the move at the se...
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Getting some height prior to heel hooking. Photo b...
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After the last hard move. After the first two jugg...
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| Comments on Vergin' on Perversion |
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2005
| Josh, where is the "s" on this route? I did it many years ago, and I don't remember anything too scary. Maybe, on the first pitch? Or the last pitch? |
By Josh Janes
Nov 15, 2005
| The runout is on the last pitch - heading up to the lone bolt. If you did OK on the 5.11c, then it's unlikely you'll have a problem, but the fall would be pretty bad. |
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2005
| Thanks, Josh! Then, I don't recommend anyone avoid this route because of the "s" in the rating. I was barely able to second the 5.11 pitches, yet I led the last one and have no memory of being worried. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2009
| P1 is good by itself as a long 10 mixed section to the 11a bolted crux. There were several hard moves on the 10 section with some funky rock. There was one runout near the top where you start a 9 sequence with the gear below your feet. You may be able to sling a thin and doubtful flake on the right if you are tall enough. There are 3 bolts near the bottom and 3 bolts at the 11a crux plus another higher bolt. I used gear to a gold Camalot. There may be placements for bigger cams to #4 Camalot. At the ledge, it's best to use a very long (triple length) sling on the single bolt and then move left and belay from gear at the bottom of the Perversion corner. You can then escape left to rap from a tree. |
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Feb 1, 2010
| Walking up to do this climb without prior knowledge, it is easy to miss the traverse right on P1 when the crack closes at the ramp 3/4 way up, I fumbled around there for a good 5-10 minutes before I saw the bolt on the right. The 11a was above this was just great.
And then after the crux on P3, I totally missed the traverse step right and over to the little ledge. Instead, natural instincts lead me to the left (wrong) and up easy ledges, DOH! That's what I get for not paying attention to the topo. But I lowered off that upper bolt and did those sweet moves.
Brilliant climb and doable for a 11a leader as it's easy to pass the 11c crux by holding the QD to grab the next hold.
P4 had snow and ice on the ledges but was still fun, I got the smallest RP in to protect the moves up to the bolt, 9. |
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