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Split Personality Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5150 S 
Schlock Therapy T 
Shock Therapy S 
Split Personality S 
Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) T 

Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, 1985
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) (5....

Description 

Easy moves up the corner lead to a solitary bolt, which protects a thin face traverse (reachy move) out left to jugs. Easier moves follow and lead to the anchors.

Originally climbed without any bolts, another party came along (in 1989) thinking the route unclimbed and added the bolt and anchors, which is how it now stands. This climb offers a nice blend of crack and face climbing in a somewhat secluded area. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Around the corner from the striking arete of Split Personality is this left-facing corner system which thins and leads to face climbing.

Protection 

pro to 2.5", bolt, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) Slideshow Add Photo
Disposition Crevice
BETA PHOTO: Disposition Crevice

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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 10, 2005

Useless trivia - the name "Venus Which Is Green" comes from the the Jimi Hendrix song Voodoo Chile (at 2:43 in), which is on the Electric Ladyland album.
By Murf
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Last few finger locks harder if your fingers tend toward the big end. PG in Barlett which doesn't seem to make sense.
By Richard Beller
Jul 13, 2007

The PG rating makes sense to me. I fell at the top of the crack, pulled a small cam, and almost fell on my belayer, who ducked just in time. It's a great route, though. As always, make sure you back up small gear and use decent-sized runners, especially this close to the ground.
By Phil Esra
Dec 9, 2014

A beautiful little corner; worth doing.