Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Split Personality Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5150 
Schlock Therapy 
Shock Therapy 
Split Personality 
Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) 

Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, 1985
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) (5....

Description 

Easy moves up the corner lead to a solitary bolt, which protects a thin face traverse (reachy move) out left to jugs. Easier moves follow and lead to the anchors.

Originally climbed without any bolts, another party came along (in 1989) thinking the route unclimbed and added the bolt and anchors, which is how it now stands. This climb offers a nice blend of crack and face climbing in a somewhat secluded area. Two stars out of five.


Location 

Around the corner from the striking arete of Split Personality is this left-facing corner system which thins and leads to face climbing.


Protection 

pro to 2.5", bolt, anchors (all 3/8")



Photos of Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) Slideshow Add Photo
Disposition Crevice
BETA PHOTO: Disposition Crevice
Comments on Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 10, 2005

Useless trivia - the name "Venus Which Is Green" comes from the the Jimi Hendrix song Voodoo Chile (at 2:43 in), which is on the Electric Ladyland album.

By Murf
Oct 2, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Last few finger locks harder if your fingers tend toward the big end. PG in Barlett which doesn't seem to make sense.

By Richard Beller
Jul 13, 2007

The PG rating makes sense to me. I fell at the top of the crack, pulled a small cam, and almost fell on my belayer, who ducked just in time. It's a great route, though. As always, make sure you back up small gear and use decent-sized runners, especially this close to the ground.