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Venus Envy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 8/98
Page Views: 1,303
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Lily on Venus Envy...

Description 

As the name suggests, this route is great for those who have not risen to the level of Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c). Though not as classic as its neighbor, it is fun on those occasions when it is dry. It lives in a waterfall all spring, and is a wall of ice in the winter. It can be a good warm up for the crimpfest routes to the left.

Start up the corner on easier but sometimes dirty or spider-infested rock heading up and right. The crux steps left on to steep rock for a brief section of difficulty followed by an anchor.

Location 

Venus Envy starts in the shallow corner between the steep, clean, left side of the cliff and the dirty, unused, waterfall section of rock.

Protection 

7 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Venus Envy Slideshow Add Photo
lily clipping up Venus Envy...
lily clipping up Venus Envy...
Lily reaches the anchor... and a photographer...
Lily reaches the anchor... and a photographer...
Lily warming up on Venus Envy...
Lily warming up on Venus Envy...
lilt doing what she does best... crimping...
lilt doing what she does best... crimping...
lily feeling for the holds as things get steeper rachel on belay...
lily feeling for the holds as things get steeper r...
the rusty anchor of Venus Envy... hey you wouldnt looks so hot either if you spent the winter under 10 feet of ice... there is another better looking anchor a little to the left that is easy to get to and in way better condition...
BETA PHOTO: the rusty anchor of Venus Envy... hey you wouldnt ...

Comments on Venus Envy Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2007

i climbed this one today and was sketched out by the super rusted anchor... the lower rings are ok but the the glue-ins and links are wicked rusty... just FYI...
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 2, 2010

Same for me, Lee - except I was sketched enough to use the anchor to the left instead. Given that the glue-ins and quick-links are completely covered with rust and the rap rings don't have a spot, are we looking at a mixed stainless/non-stainless issue here?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is worth doing if dry, not classic but has some really fun moves. The anchors are sketchy for sure but they held me :)
By GMBurns
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

definitely clip the anchors to the left. The ones at the top of this climb are scary rusted.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Dec 8, 2010

Exactly how is a well bolted sport route R rated exactly? :eye roll:
By S. Neoh
Dec 8, 2010

Jake, I scratched my head upon reading that as well until I realized that the "R" is for the Rusty anchors at the top of this climb.
I would probably traverse left and use Neptune's acnhors, as he suggested, if I ever find myself cleaning draws off this climb.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 6, 2013

I climbed this today and really liked it. The bottom was very sharp, but the business up top had more comfortable holds. Don't bail because of the sharp stuff! (It left me very bloody handed, though.)

Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more to do with Selsun Blue forming and the waterfall running over it for 50% of the last 15 years.