Venus Envy 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Ed Esmond 8/98 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Mar 19, 2007 |
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lily clipping up Venus Envy...
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Description As the name suggests, this route is great for those who have not risen to the level of Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c). Though not as classic as its neighbor, it is fun on those occasions when it is dry. It lives in a waterfall all spring, and is a wall of ice in the winter. It can be a good warm up for the crimpfest routes to the left.
Start up the corner on easier but sometimes dirty or spider-infested rock heading up and right. The crux steps left on to steep rock for a brief section of difficulty followed by an anchor.
Location Venus Envy starts in the shallow corner between the steep, clean, left side of the cliff and the dirty, unused, waterfall section of rock.
Protection 7 bolts to anchor.
Lily on Venus Envy...
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Lily warming up on Venus Envy...
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lily feeling for the holds as things get steeper r...
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lilt doing what she does best... crimping...
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Lily reaches the anchor... and a photographer...
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BETA PHOTO: the rusty anchor of Venus Envy... hey you wouldnt ...
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2007
| i climbed this one today and was sketched out by the super rusted anchor... the lower rings are ok but the the glue-ins and links are wicked rusty... just FYI... |
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 2, 2010
| Same for me, Lee - except I was sketched enough to use the anchor to the left instead. Given that the glue-ins and quick-links are completely covered with rust and the rap rings don't have a spot, are we looking at a mixed stainless/non-stainless issue here? |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| This route is worth doing if dry, not classic but has some really fun moves. The anchors are sketchy for sure but they held me :) |
By GMBurns
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a R
| definitely clip the anchors to the left. The ones at the top of this climb are scary rusted. |
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Dec 8, 2010
| Exactly how is a well bolted sport route R rated exactly? :eye roll: |
By S. Neoh
Dec 8, 2010
| Jake, I scratched my head upon reading that as well until I realized that the "R" is for the Rusty anchors at the top of this climb.
I would probably traverse left and use Neptune's acnhors, as he suggested, if I ever find myself cleaning draws off this climb. |
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