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Lankin Dome
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Venus and Mars 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Collins, Rob Hess 1990
Page Views: 1,101
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009

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  • Description 

    An outstanding route, but you have to really have it together (solid 5.9 leader) to keep your cool on the last pitch. This route starts in the sandy area below and right of the start to the Tree Route. A bolt will be seen about 25 feet off the ground on the slab. This is the only pro for the first pitch, which starts out 5.5 by the bolt but rapidly goes to class 4 as you ascend to a 2 bolt belay. The second pitch goes over a 5.8 wall above (bolts), then works up and left into a bowl (no pro) below and right of the chopped up looking pinnacle. Climb (5.8) directly up to the right of this pinnacle past several bolts. At the last bolt, traverse straight left the belay ledge at the top of the pinnacle(gear belay). The 3rd pitch is the crux. Proceed up and sltly right to a bolt, then over a couple of 5.9 bulges (bolts) to a horizontal seam. Traverse left to a bolt in a bowl. Smear left to the thin beginning of a small corner--the exposed crux for several 5.9 moves until the crack widens. Proceed to the two bolts of the third belay. The last pitch starts with some 5.8 past a bolt and then more or less straight up past sparse protection (some bolts, small cams, RPs) to the top. You need to wind a round a bit and be very cool and creative on this last pitch.

    Location 

    This is on the beautiful clean wall to the right of the Tree Route. Identify by the interesting chopped up looking pinnacle about 300 feet up. Start in the sandy area the the base of the wall, behind some junipers, below and right of the class 4 crack system leading up to the Tree Route. Look for a lone bolt on the slab above, about 25 feet up. Descend by the Cowboy Route or the Red Nations rappels, or the Crevasse Route rappels.

    Protection 

    RPs, rack of stoppers, cams to #3 Camelot. Take a set of tricams and I find #0 and #1 Black D microcams (1 each) to be the only thing that fits in the tiny flared corner at the very start of the crux, as well as nice on the last pitch. Take lots of single length runners and a couple of doubles as there is a lot of winding around.


    Comments on Venus and Mars Add Comment
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    By Jared Spaulding
    From: Central WY
    Feb 17, 2012

    I did this several years ago and there was only a single bolt at the first belay. Has someone added a second bolt?
    By bob branscomb
    From: Lander, WY
    Feb 28, 2012

    Ed DeLong and I placed a second bolt in the first belay and another one in the third belay a couple of years ago, so those belays have double bolt (3/8") anchors.
    By Dapper Dan Rogers
    From: Driggs, ID
    May 21, 2012

    You can also skip the first pitch by traversing over to the 2 bolt belay from near the base of the tree route. As the description says, You definitely want a solid leader on the 2nd/3rd pitches of this route, as it seems to get kind of run-out, and scary on the upper pitches at times.