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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 210', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Pitches 1-2 Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson 1996. Pitch 3 Mike Baker and Chris Ducker 1997|
|Season: ||Year round. Spring and fall are best|
|Submitted By: ||S.Mckinna on Jan 30, 2011|
Jessica Unruh starting pitch 1. Easy but run out.
|DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE|
Rock Climbing Desert Rock 4 describes the crux to be in pitch 2 (5.9+ 90 ft). The 3rd pitch (5.9 60 ft), sporting lichen covered rock and a loose "death block", seemed to be the crux for me. The first Pitch (5.5 60 ft) belay had no hangers on the bolts. This could be girth hitched or you could bypass the belay and do pitch 1 and 2 in a long pitch. The death block on the third pitch is at the anchors, wear helmets. I would have released the block myself but had a dog at the bottom. If you go to do the 3rd pitch leave all your gear away from the base and knock the block off for future safe climbing!!
The route is an obvious left facing corner at mile seven. Study your approach and expect 25-35 minutes to reach the climb.
I brought a set of aliens, double tcu's for pitches 1 and 2. Pitch 3 used some smaller stuff and a 3,4,and 5 camalot. Fixed pins and bolts for anchors...bring webbing. bring some runners to clip one bolt on pitch 2 and for girth hitch belay. Rap from P3 to P2 60 ft. and double rope rap from P2 to the ground 150 ft.
BETA PHOTO: Jessica starting up pitch 3. The death block is j...
BETA PHOTO: Jess pointing to the corner from the road.
BETA PHOTO: The first belay is at the start of the crack down ...