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7 miles
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Vendetta 

Vendetta 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 210', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pitches 1-2 Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson 1996. Pitch 3 Mike Baker and Chris Ducker 1997
Season: Year round. Spring and fall are best
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: S.Mckinna on Jan 30, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Jess pointing to the corner from the road.
DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE

Description 

Rock Climbing Desert Rock 4 describes the crux to be in pitch 2 (5.9+ 90 ft). The 3rd pitch (5.9 60 ft), sporting lichen covered rock and a loose "death block", seemed to be the crux for me. The first Pitch (5.5 60 ft) belay had no hangers on the bolts. This could be girth hitched or you could bypass the belay and do pitch 1 and 2 in a long pitch. The death block on the third pitch is at the anchors, wear helmets. I would have released the block myself but had a dog at the bottom. If you go to do the 3rd pitch leave all your gear away from the base and knock the block off for future safe climbing!!


Location 

The route is an obvious left facing corner at mile seven. Study your approach and expect 25-35 minutes to reach the climb.


Protection 

I brought a set of aliens, double tcu's for pitches 1 and 2. Pitch 3 used some smaller stuff and a 3,4,and 5 camalot. Fixed pins and bolts for anchors...bring webbing. bring some runners to clip one bolt on pitch 2 and for girth hitch belay. Rap from P3 to P2 60 ft. and double rope rap from P2 to the ground 150 ft.



Photos of Vendetta Slideshow Add Photo
Jessica Unruh starting pitch 1.  Easy but run out.
Jessica Unruh starting pitch 1. Easy but run out.
Jessica starting up pitch 3.  The death block is just above my green alien.  It is hard not to use it.  If I had brought more small gear I'm sure I could have pulled on some cams to the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Jessica starting up pitch 3. The death block is j...
The first belay is at the start of the crack down to the right.  Pitch 3 stops about 3/4 of the way up the corner, below the blocky section, due to soft rock.
BETA PHOTO: The first belay is at the start of the crack down ...
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