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This route has two stellar classic pitches(P1 and P2) clean and superb quality rock. After that rock quality deteriorate significantly. A lot of loose and unstable rock in upper part of this climb.
P1: Start on pedestal 15 feet left from Anathema . Tight hands (10a) quickly become wide hands - and than 25 feet of 5.7 secure but unprotected chimney. ~80feet - hanging belay in hand size crack above the rappel slings. You can just do first pitch and rappel down.
P2: 80 feet 5" offset splitter OW almost all the way . This pitch should have 5 stars out of 5. Starts with short 6" (#6Friend) leaning crack which after 10 feet become straight vertical 5" (#5Camelot sise)
You can walk up #5 Camelots easily all the way. Plus you have one piton about 30 feet up from the start and you can place some small gear ~1" .
I climbed this pitch left side in all the way. And it works fine. The left knee almost all the way in.
My wife followed same way. I am curious - anybody climbed this thing as right side in or straight in?
Gear for P2 in order of appearance: #6 Friend, #5 Friend, #0.75 camelot, piton, #4 camelot, #5 camelot, #5 camelot.
Hanging Belay in alcove with small pro ( green/red aliens)
P3. Exit from alcove - 5 feet horizontal traverse ( 10a) left to reach vertical vertical thin hands crack. This short traverse it was wet and hard. Thin hands crack is easy and rock quality is quickly deteriorate. Climb to the small trees with old slings. ~80 feet. Now you at the same level as top of Catchy Corner. You can double rope rappel to the top of Vendetta P1 . If you do so- add some webbing to the tree.
p4. class 4 ramp to the base of p5. loose rock, dirts, slippery- we did it as simulclimb with some pro.
P5. Tree options:
a. Intimidating 10c OW in Left corner with overhanging exit to the top. looks mach harder ( did not try)
b. Thin hands crack exit 10-
Looks OK, but in the very end on top of this crack huge dead tree brunch is ready to fall on you and your belayer ( did not try)
c. Easiest- right most exit wide hands 5.9 - what we did
Next time I''l bring two ropes and rappel from P3
Climb starts between Cookie Right and Anathema
double from green alien to #5 Camalot + #6 Friend
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Oct 3, 2010
I climbed the crux pitch left side in the whole way as well; secure leavittation the whole way (minus the easy initial 6" crack). If I did it again I would also rap after P3...the rest is super dirty and a real letdown after the rock quality on P1 an P2. If I could I would rap after P2, but there is no anchor in the alcove.
I would take singles from purple TCU/blue alien to 4 camalot, with doubles from .75 to 3. Triples #5, no #6...it's a pain to carry for what is relatively easy OW climbing.
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Dec 6, 2011
Great climb! I loved the first 2 pitches and the third would be great also if it were clean.
P1- protects all the way to the anchor. (2 #4 friends or 3.5 Camalots protect the chimney)
From the top of p3 we rapped to the base of Anathema w/2 60m ropes
Jan 7, 2012
Vendetta p2 var. FA: Urmas Franosch, mid 1980s
Vendetta p5 left var. FA: Jim Donini, Mark Chapman, 1973