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Velvet Habel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Schmausser and Britt Anderson in 2001
Page Views: 1,261
Submitted By: Chris R on Mar 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Looking at the 5.7 next to Guide's Route. The lin...

Description 

I have no idea if this route exists in a guide anywhere or not--it is a link up of an existing short sport route and a nice corner/flake system. One of the better lines up Turret. The start is a sport line just 15 feet to the right of the start of Guide's Route (see Guide's Route description for details). There is a worthless silver bolt about 6 feet off the ground. Climb this sport line straight up past 5 or so bolts to anchors in a bathtub. You can set a belay here if you like; I usually continue onwards with the first lead. From the anchors, run it out up and right, aiming for a huge flake that forms a left-facing corner. Once you arrive at the corner, cruise up on solid rock. There is a hidden belay that can be found 3/4 up the corner by slinging a large horn and sitting on an airy ledge next to the horn. The next pitch finishes the corner and aims straight up for a blocky roof which is about 20' wide. You can set good anchors in the horizontal crack beneath the roof. The easiest pull over the roof is to the climbers right. From there move upwards through blocks to the summit--variations exist from 5.5 to 5.8 depending on the line. Descent is interesting 5-easy downclimb on the opposite side of the dome from this line. NOTE: I have given this a 5.7 rating due to my own impressions. Take it with a grain of salt....

If this is an established line, my apologies to the FAs. Has anyone else ever done this/is it in a guide?

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts on P1, standard rack for the rest. A few small camming units (yellow & red Alien) come in handy. Slings can ease drag as the route winds a bit.


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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2003

I climbed the start with the 5 bolt sport route. I looked up at the route described and thought it would be very good. The line is natural and at least as good as the Guide's Route. Try it. The 5.7 rating looked fine.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 29, 2004

Hello, Just did this route the other day. I loved it, great face and crack climbing on the Turret dome. I would question the rating because of the sport route start, a little harder than 5.7 in my mind. We did a running belay for part of the left facing flake and linked the route into second pitch of the Guides Route. Does anyone know about this variation? Overall very fun route...plan on doing it many more times.
By Larry Shaw
May 27, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7 sounds good...did the bolted route to the right around 5.9. the one just right of that is around 5.8 and the furthest right one is a slabby 5.10b. Didn't do the bolted route just left of unnamed 5.7...will have to try it next trip out.
By Richard Beller
Jan 24, 2005

My wife and I did this route in the summer of 2003, and thought it was fun, though occasionally mossy. 5.7 seems about right. I remember a long runout (30 + feet) on easy terrain on the initial pitch above the bolted anchors. I wouldn't recommend that section to a new leader, though the route is a good one for a beginner to follow. Above that pitch we found a fairly clean crack system with nice belay ledges.
By Ryan Carlino
May 9, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Tried the bolted portion of this route on Sat. The description is right: It is 5-bolts to a good 2-bolt anchor with lowering links. The anchor is about 50' off the deck. The route begins on top of the rock that forms the gully leading from the bolted routes below to the Guides Route to the left. The beginning is juggy and more vertical. It gets lower angle after the 3rd bolt and is changes to more face climbing. Off to the left the rock has a cool green lichen on it.

The crack above the anchors looks good - too bad you have to top off and walk around to do it. About 20' to the right and down the gully a bit is the next bolted route. We didn't get a chance to do this one, but it also has about 5-bolts and ends at a 2-bolt anchor in a small scoop.
By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 18, 2006

The name of this route is Velvet Habel. Put up by Britt Anderson & myself in 2001. I thought it was about 5.6 for the first pitch. Harder, perhaps 5.7 making it to the crack on the second pitch. I could add a bolt or two for the second pitch.
By Rob Felts
From: Colorado Springs, Co
Oct 16, 2011

This route has replaced the Guides Route as my favorite route on Turrett Dome. We climbed the sport route then went right to the left-facing dihedral. At the top of the dihedral, there is a great spot to anchor adjacent to the pins on the Guides Route. The next pitch begins with a great, easy overhang.