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Elevation: 958 ft
GPS: 37.64552, -83.71831
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,503 total · 396/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Oct 20, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

This crag is located in the Flat Holler area of the PMRP. It hosts a wide variety of routes from 5.8 to 5.12 on mostly vertical rock. Most of the lines are sport however there are a few very good looking trad lines. This crag gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Flat Holler Parking lot, walk back towards the entrance to the parking lot and then turn a sharp right up the oil road. Follow the oil road until it ends and a trail starts next to the Velo sign. In two more minutes, you should come to the wall underneath On Beyond Velodrome, with its large hueco about halfway up the wall. There is a set of stair steps to take to the left side of the crag. Just follow the cliff base to the right for the right side of the crag. To get Velo Pinnacles, take the stair up and then follow the cliff line to the left. Look for a trail that cuts off left and follow it. Then contour around the pinnacles until you go right and squeeze through a small gap in the rock. Scramble through a few more squeezes between boulders until you find the bolts of Lighting Rod Arete.

Approach time 10 minutes.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Velo Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 222
Dura-Ace
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 240
Lanterne Rouge
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 167
Ultegra
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Tourist Attractions
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
Real Girls Don't Pumptrack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 99
The Century
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 98
Road Rash
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
The Podium
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 183
Lightning Rod Arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
A Spot of Bother
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
My Quads Are Too Big
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
A Cat Amongst the Pigeons
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Desire Line
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Thunderface
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dura-Ace
 222
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm
 44
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lanterne Rouge
 240
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ultegra
 167
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Tourist Attractions
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Real Girls Don't Pumptrack
 79
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Century
 99
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Road Rash
 98
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Podium
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Lightning Rod Arete
 183
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
A Spot of Bother
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
My Quads Are Too Big
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
A Cat Amongst the Pigeons
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Desire Line
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Thunderface
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Velo Crag »

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