Vedauwoo, WIde Gear.

So Im looking to get arm deep in some cracks and dont have much big gear. So before i buy some pricey cams or big bros i would like to know what is the most useful for those wide grunt fest out there. What i have seen it looks like the cracks flare a bit and it looks like big bros might not be the answer. What do you guys use?

Well, big bros were pretty much designed for Vedauwoo and big cams are great for scooting up the cracks with you. Sounds like you already know what you need. Maybe find a partner with some wide gear so you can see exactly how much of which gear you need.

I consistently pack up to an old style #4 camalot. If the route calls for bigger gear, i'll carry it, but unless the route is described as sustained offwidth (e.g. fantasia, middle parallel space, mainstreet), the big gear stays home.

Most offwidths are flaring enough to allow smaller gear in the back, or short enough that you can run it out safely with the rack i carry. Big bros can be practical but require a sort of crack that's not too common at vedauwoo: smooth and parallel sided.

To expand my previous statement: i've placed the blue big bro on lead once, and never the green one, and not for lack of trying. They may be the only pro in certain cracks, but most of the time, they are hard to place and an equivalent cam fits better.

#3 big bro!!!!! And old #5 BD cam. Best for the awful at the Voo

My first trip to the Voo I had doubles from green alien to #5. I want triple 4 and two 6s next time. I got by on plent of stuff but the things that called out to me I'd like a few big guys for. After all, that's what I went there for.

Oh horns mother...

you guys are the bomb! Paul ill let you know specifics when i get my guide in the mail. but i wouldnt mind getting shown around for a day or two if there are any friendlys around

If you can find the old big wild country #6 I think, get it. Also bd #5 the new one is good too.

Wild Country is making the #5 and 6 again. In case you didn't know.

ShibbyShane wrote:Wild Country is making the #5 and 6 again. In case you didn't know.

Sweet. I didn't know. If I didn't have ow gear that gets used too little already, I'd be getting those.

William Rhyne wrote:So Im looking to get arm deep in some cracks and dont have much big gear. So before i buy some pricey cams or big bros i would like to know what is the most useful for those wide grunt fest out there. What i have seen it looks like the cracks flare a bit and it looks like big bros might not be the answer. What do you guys use?

Do you have a decent to full trad rack? If yes then start buying specialized gear when you need it, based on route beta from routes that you want to do.

decent rack in my book consists of.

set small nuts
set regular nuts
1, #0 master cam
2 each, Master cam 1-4
2 each, BD .75-3
1, BD #4
10-12 quick draws
10 spare biners

Argue over brands all you want, but this size range is pretty consistent with a standard rack.

So if you have all of that, I'd start with a #5 and a #6. If you are just starting out with the wide, you'll be climbing easier stuff and can bump the cam along as you progress.

Good luck.

Prod.

ya you summed it up nicely PROD.. thats about where i am picking wide pieces here and there. for some of the straight longish OWs would bringing up the micro pieces even be worth it? any face pro or horizontals anywhere up those Vedauwoo OWs?

William Rhyne wrote:ya you summed it up nicely PROD.. thats about where i am picking wide pieces here and there. for some of the straight longish OWs would bringing up the micro pieces even be worth it? any face pro or horizontals anywhere up those Vedauwoo OWs?

I dunno about micro pieces, but it seems like a lot of the OW are flared and you can get smaller gear in further back in the crack. Probably not much smaller than a BD #1 but it also depends on the line.

Keep in mind that the double axle camming units are nice when you are learning a new size and want to keep bumping the gear above your head. I have a BD #6, a wild country #6 and a green big bro - these allowed me to push the BD6 above my head and leave the bro and wc6 behind me after i had traveled a decent amount. 6's were a hard size for me, and 5's came much easier, so I only have two 5's, which has been enough for even the really long 5-6 inch cracks at the creek. 4.5 inch is THE hardest size of wide crack for me, so if you can find a 4.5 it might give some peace of mind when laybacking through to the knee jams ;)

edit:

also keep in mind that if you get totally shut down on a size, you are going to want 2 cams to aid it out. aiding a size you can't jam for whatever reason is much more difficult with only one piece, especially if it is a single axle (or a big bro ;)