Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent 
Brown Flake 
Crack of Doom 
Easiest Route 
Fall Line 
Morning Glory 
Power Tools 
Reach for the Sky 
Strategic Defense 
Veal Cage 

Veal Cage 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Jason Young on May 31, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


I thought I'd include this route for nostalgia (since I had a mini-epic on it years ago). Pull the large overlap/roof above the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" (a route which is an interesting feat in-and-of itself). Reportedly harder than the original rating of 5.11c now that "the" jug has broken off (don't know who could've done that). I bet this route seldom get done. I know it didn't even when it was 5.11c.


Climb to the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" and continue up and left to the next set of anchors about 20 feet further. Located between "Morning Glory" and "Skyline".


Bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor.

Comments on Veal Cage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Jan 7, 2013

That person would be me...the jug breaker that is! Actually it broke quite easily as I was pulling the move off of it. That was in '93 or '94 on a roadtrip with my buddy Chip R. After it broke, I pulled some of the fractured pieces out, lowered off, pulled the rope and re-lead it. We called it 12- and moved on. I remember the whole roof feeling sorta creaky. It musta broke more afterwards because it definitely wasn't 12c; it was easier than the crux of other .12's like Power Tools, etc.

By dave bingham
Sep 22, 2013

FA - Tony Yaniro.