Vascular Disaster 5.11c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Tim Fisher, Jeff Overby - 1985 |
| Submitted By: | bldrite on Jul 6, 2007 |
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Description This is a pretty classic Moore's Wall route. The crux may be just getting past the 12- boulder problem start, don't blow it here. So, fire off the start, get up about 15 feet, place first good pro, bomber gear, long sling. More mellow climbing brings you to a roof crux with tricky gear placements, good gear, just tricky to see your placements. Pull the roof and then continue to anchors on a pumpy jug haul with some good gear of #1/#2 size camalots. NC anchor of a couple of wires (cannot recall if there are hexes or of the wires are simply through some rock...but it's solid)
Location Located at the North End of Moore's Wall.
Protection Trad gear, mostly small cams. .5 camalot to a 2 camalot range.
| Comments on Vascular Disaster |
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By dcohn
Nov 16, 2007
| Strange rating. An 11c with a 12a start. |
By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 3, 2008
| I think the rating is a bit of compromise. The start is 12, but the rest is probably no harder than 11a/b. So they call it 11c... |
By Ben Sachs
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| PG13 seems harsh for this route. There is bomber gear for every section. More straight-forward than a lot of routes at Moores. The start is probably 11+/12a but you are right off the ground. |
By erik danielson
Apr 29, 2009
| ill never understand how a route can "start" at 12/11+ and end up with a 11- grade. |
By Ben Sachs
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| its called sandbagging dude, no shortage at Moores. Pretty reasonable route for an 11c climber to try though. pull the boulder problem and you are cruising 5.11. oh yeah and supposedly a hold broke out of that start at some point, making it harder. |
By ChanVan
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| There is currently a cheater block at the base, which makes the boulder problem definitely more like 11+, even for the shorter folks |
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c
| Chandler, there's no way the start is 11+ for the truly short. V3 is perhaps the proper grade for the start. A pad would be nice if that rhodo weren't in the way. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11
| What a great route. I think it would be a hard on-sight for a 5.11 trad climber. The gear is hard to see from below, but it's all there and bomber.
I'd agree w/ Scott, the start is a v3 if you start w/ both hands on the opening crimps (shorter people would have to jump up there).
As for the recommended gear in the description above, I used three cams that are smaller than .5. You'll definitely want TCU's down to blue, and a pink tricam protects the black roof (a bit run out but safe). |
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11 PG13
| Strange gear description by the OP. I think people would be better off if it just said "standard Moore's rack" than what was listed. I highly recommend gear at least down to a #2 TCU, and probably multiples in the in the #3TCU/#1 Friend range (maybe even #1.5 Friend range). I find tricams really nice on this route as they save weight on the opening pull, and the climbing is more moderate where you need doubles of any size. I agree with Scott on the opening at V3. Other than that, I think it is 11b with familiarity, but you would need to be a solid mid-11 climber to on-sight. BTW, despite the great gear you get on the climb, the start is pretty serious. Given the landing situation, I would recommend approaching this as a PG13 route, as you really don't want to blow it on the last move before you have your first gear option. |
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