Varnishing Point 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, March 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Scott Conner on Dec 15, 2001 |
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J.C. leading crux pitch two.
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Description The Brass Wall is split by a nice looking 2-pitch crack system with a big ledge halfway up. This is Varnishing Point.
P1: 5.5, ~80' Climb an easy crack with good pro to a large ledge.
P2: 5.8+, ~80' Climb up to an overhang and lieback out left following the crack. Clip a bolt on the face before you climb down and right of an offwidth section to the rap anchors on another small ledge. This pitch is full value but takes great gear.
Descent: Double rope rap.
Protection Pro to 3" works fine.
BETA PHOTO: brass wall
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Varnishing Point...or a variation of, Red Rock, NV
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Varnishing Point from the rap on No Laughing Matte...
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Linking 1&2
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| Comments on Varnishing Point |
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By L. Hamilton
Feb 26, 2004
| Historical note: FA March 1976, Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton. The name was inspired by the 1971 cult movie "Vanishing Point," which had recently been screened in Boulder. |
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.8+
| A #4 Camalot is useful on both the 1st and 2nd pitches. |
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jan 6, 2006
rating: 5.8+
| Although the pitches are short, this is still a fun, worthwhile route to do. We only had gear to a #3, which was fine, but on the initial moves of pitch 1, it would have been nice to be able to sink a #4 cam in above a huge, very suspect looking block, before standing on it. Looks like it'll break off one day. I didn't trust it enough to put my full weight on it, that's for sure! |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 1, 2007
| Contrary to the Brock (big red) guidebook, pitch 2 is about 90', NOT 150'. Approx 130' total to ground from the top of pitch 2. |
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Mar 28, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 31, 2009
| steve- there's a key patch of unvarnished rock for that lieback move that keeps it in the 5.8 range- if you missed that, it would probably feel harder. |
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| Linking the two pitches with a 60m rope is no problem if you keep rope drag in mind.
A bit of a one move wonder in terms of difficulty, but still pretty enjoyable. |
By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
| Does anyone know if you can get off the top of P2 with a 70m rope? We got up the first pitch before realizing that the rap bolts were "on the backside" and we didn't want to risk an epic, or more importantly, a big fat ticket. |
By kevin graves
Jan 8, 2013
| Yes you can rap off with a 70m rope. Just gets to the bottom but very safe. |
By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 8, 2013
| You can link pitches 1&2 together with a 60m rope (note that rope stretch may cause ledging out if you blow the crux). I did not find rope drag to be an issue (I extend my pieces) or even gear with single rack to 4. Rap straight down off the anchors (that are found below the bolt at pinnacle and to the right) traverse left to the ledge of pitch 1 to find another chain anchor. 2 raps. During the crux of the route I felt like it was hard for 5.8 found out after it is an Herbst route. |
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