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Various Power Endurance Methods
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By Joel R
Apr 29, 2013

I have just finished up my MaxRecruitment phase and will be starting the PE portion this week. I plan on mostly doing 4x4's but was curious to what other methods are out there. While doing some further research online I came across a couple of ways to incorporate PE with both the hangboard and campus board which I though was rather interesting.. Here are a couple of quick workout descriptions which I found at robotclimbing.blogspot.com/p/workouts.html

Hangboard PE Exercise

"Super Repeaters

This is a tweaked version of repeats from the Beastmaker guys that focuses on longer term power endurance. Perform repeaters as normal except do 12 reps in each set.

Back 2 (7s+3s)x12, rest 2 minutes
Front 2 (7s+3s)x12, rest 2 minutes
Middle 2 (7s+3s)x12, rest 2 minutes
Half Crimp (7s+3s)x12, rest 2 minutes
Sloper (7s+3s)x12, rest 2 minutes

I'll do two sets of these resting about 15 minutes between sets. During these 15 minutes I either do nothing or some basic conditioning: clapping pushups, ab exercises etc. After making it through an entire set add 2-3 pounds next time."

Campus Board PE Exercise

"ampus Board power endurance involves intervals of laddering on the campus board. The work/rest cycle and number of sets is flexible. I have used 25 seconds on and 2 minutes off for 8 sets, adding 5 seconds to each set after making it through the entire workout. I do about a move every second when I am on and my arms and back fail before my grip. The faster pace better suits my style of redpoint climbing.

A reader suggested a 20 second on 10 second off protocol with one move every 3 seconds. I haven't yet tried this but it sounds brutal. I can guess the slower pace would have the effect of saving ones arms and back so your grip is the first to fail. This slower pace may be more useful for onsite or flash climbing."


Oddly enough, I actually really enjoy the hangboard and campus board parts of my plan and wouldn't hate the idea of trying to improve my endurance in this fashion. I also like the fact that both of these methods have a very clear way to quantify performance gains as sessions would be documented. However, one of the main downfalls that I see with this is that I would be eliminating the more movement based phase of my plan.

Anyways, I'm mainly just curious on who else has tried a similar approach and how they thought it compared to doing 4x4's and other types of generic PE training exercises. Positives? Negatives? Other recommended exercises?


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By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Apr 29, 2013
Pup Tent OS

The nice thing about moving into a power endurance phase is that you FINALLY get to do a bunch of climbing after the hangboarding and campus boarding phases (if you're following a periodized training plan). Although you would be working (shorter term) power endurance with the workouts you described above, the big thing these workouts are missing are movement. Doing 4x4 type workouts have the benefit of focusing on movement while pumped.

If you're looking for more variety besides the standard 4x4 workout check out Steve Beschtel's 6-week power endurance plan on his site: www.climbstrong.com/articles/20130115_2 I've just started it myself last week and I think it's going to show good results.


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