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Dave chalkin' up just past the dihedral.
Go for the onsight... but if you want a description, here goes: Bouldery start, height-dependent. If you're not 6'3", it'll be harder to reach the out-of-sight jug. Then a short slab to the overhanging dihedral/handcrack. Rest here, then angle back in to the right, find a way through the crux, and up and over. Another short section awaits here before you reach the anchors. The climb is dirty in places. You could lead this trad if you want, though I don't trust the rock at this crag even 85%... feels like some of the cracks expand a tad.
Variation: from the rest, stay left and creep up underneath the roof, than traverse right. This way is easier and not 11c. Not sure about my ratings, anyway, so you're welcome to put in your two cents about how they feel to you.
P.S. if you're flailing at the start, take the slabby alternative to its right.
Chain anchors up top, easy to find.
Gettin' into the thick of it.
The start of Variety Show, with the first holds of...
|By Matt Nelson|
From: Pueblo, CO
May 24, 2007
Fun route, but be careful. Some of the rock on this route doesn't seem too secure.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 30, 2007
The plate wedged near the top of the hand crack moves, but it isn't coming out anytime soon. The burly part is towards the top. Some fun moves on this one.
|By Legs Magillicutty|
Jun 20, 2008
I climbed this one again last night. I really enjoy this route. It doesn't feel as hard as 11c in my opinion. I'm a little concerned about the flake that Tobias shows in the first picture of Dave climbing it. The rock under the flake is rotten and the flake is hollow. The rock on the right of the flake is deteriorating and looks like it would be the first to break. It's probably not going anywhere but it bugged my last night. Anyway, keep an eye on the trajectory path should it fall. Use caution.
|By Richie Hum|
Dec 23, 2010
Did the climb last night. Number one recomendation make sure you can feel feet and hands when climbing it, otherwise it's not as fun as it could be, but it's still fun. The entire flake that the climb is based around sorta scared the cr*p out of me, but it was fun. The bolts on top were good, but the last couple of chains were a wee bit rusty, so might be good to chop off one or two chain links.
From: Idaho Springs
Mar 22, 2013
Love the line.
There are indeed some loose and some hollow-sounding sections.
No doubt it would take gear on lead, but not mine....
It's so quick and easy to set up your TR.
I run laps here on my MiniTrax, after-work and with "squeezed for time" kinda days all the time...quick & easy to setup.
I think some jackass stopped and soaked most the start with a pissing session...it was pretty rank as hell smelling when I was there the other night, I tried washing the rock with what water I had.