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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide 
4 x 4 
Carbondale Short Bus 
Collision Course 
Country 
Crankcase 
Destination Paris 
Hookers 'n Blow 
Hydraulic Pump 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie 
Knobby Tires 
Lift Kit 
Linkage 
Marshmallow Safari 
Minute Lube 
Monster Truck 
Salt-Lake Special 
scout 
Take 10 
Take 5 
Town 
Tranny Trouble 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner 
Unknown long hands into wide corner 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel 
Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start 
Variety Pack 

Variety Pack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong ?
Page Views: 1,249
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 2, 2008
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Description 

Superb and sustained fingers in a corner, broken with some pods, face features and some rests. The crux is in the initial section. Above, good faceholds take some of the "bite" out of it. This thing is long and well worth the trip.


Location 

This is just right of Unnamed 5.11- and just left of the side-by-side Unnamed 5.10+ and Unnamed 5.10 that share the same anchor. Starts with an initial section of sandy rock in the corner that is easily scrambled before climbing the right-facing corner.


Protection 

A bunch (6-8) of finger size pieces, gray and purple Camalots with a couple smaller (green Alien size) and a couple each bigger up to #2 Camalot. 2 ropes.



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By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2008

I'm pretty sure this is a Steve Hong route based on the old "SH" stamped aluminum hangers at the top.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 4, 2008

Great route! Neither Bloom's guide nor the above post mention this route starts on top of a 15' pillar in the starting corner- that will help you find it! Felt pretty hard about 15' up, but it seemed to have multiple cruxy sections. I'd say its one of the best i've done at the creek. I'd recommend a comfy rack of 4 blue metolius, 8 yellow, 8 orange, 4 red, and a couple 2.5 friends. This route is loooooong!