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Superb and sustained fingers in a corner, broken with some pods, face features and some rests. The crux is in the initial section. Above, good faceholds take some of the "bite" out of it. This thing is long and well worth the trip.
This is just right of Unnamed 5.11- and just left of the side-by-side Unnamed 5.10+ and Unnamed 5.10 that share the same anchor. Starts with an initial section of sandy rock in the corner that is easily scrambled before climbing the right-facing corner.
A bunch (6-8) of finger size pieces, gray and purple Camalots with a couple smaller (green Alien size) and a couple each bigger up to #2 Camalot. 2 ropes.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2008
I'm pretty sure this is a Steve Hong route based on the old "SH" stamped aluminum hangers at the top.
From: SL UT
Nov 4, 2008
Great route! Neither Bloom's guide nor the above post mention this route starts on top of a 15' pillar in the starting corner- that will help you find it! Felt pretty hard about 15' up, but it seemed to have multiple cruxy sections. I'd say its one of the best i've done at the creek. I'd recommend a comfy rack of 4 blue metolius, 8 yellow, 8 orange, 4 red, and a couple 2.5 friends. This route is loooooong!