Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,619 total · 7/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, with what is considered questionable gear for some and good enough for others. You be your own judge on that. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors. The runnout section below the roof is no harder than 5.8 at any time.

This is NOT Jailbreak - Jailbreak is a variation to the start of the regular Surrealistic Pillar Route, farther to the right, as well detailed in multiple guidebooks. 

This is simply a variation to Surrealistic Direct - the Knob Variation or some such similar name. 

Protection Suggest change

Gear 2.5", with extra hand sized cams...

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