Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 40 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,619 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, with what is considered questionable gear for some and good enough for others. You be your own judge on that. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors. The runnout section below the roof is no harder than 5.8 at any time.
This is NOT Jailbreak - Jailbreak is a variation to the start of the regular Surrealistic Pillar Route, farther to the right, as well detailed in multiple guidebooks.
This is simply a variation to Surrealistic Direct - the Knob Variation or some such similar name.
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