This is a nice line with a few different flavors, among them some thin-ish face climbing and an enjoyable finger crack at the top.
One of the first routes on the south end of the cliff. It's about 10-15 ft. to the right of Carey Corner (which is the first obvious open book on the cliff). There's a direct start that begins at the memorial plaque. The indirect start enters from the left, pulling over an overlap on positive holds.
See discussion below. Very runout, as is. Very convenient toprope anchors (trees).
The bolt was placed on rappel by Mike Heintz and I'm pretty sure that Bruce Dicks (the FA) chopped the bolt, at least the first time, not who you are implying. Although he may have chopped it the second time. Bolts at Ragged are not allowed per the Deed of Conservation Restriction that the Nature Conservancy worked out with the Berlin Land Trust. However, bolts that were there before the transfer of land are allowed to be replaced per the agreement. So if you want to replace the bolt you may be able to work that out with the RMF. Even with that bolt it would be a spicy lead.
By MJMobes From: The land of steady habits Oct 27, 2011
I call everyone who goes out of their way to chop a route the same names Brian. How many chopped bolts are there at the Main Cliff Brian?
Mike, I have no idea how many chopped bolts/pitons are on the main cliff. I only know of single (chopped) bolts/pins on Vanishing Point, Knight's Gambit, and YMC. I'm not defending the choppers just trying to set the historical record straight. What I'm suggesting is that now may be a good time to replace the previously existing bolts at Ragged with those bomb-proof glue-ins that are popping up around the state. It would need someone taking the initiative of running this by the RMF. Brian