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The crux pitch features a stout roof and then a continuous, technical arete section. Nice moves on good rock in an gorgeous, exposed location.
Climb up the corner, the approach pitch, with a few medium pieces for protection (60 feet, 5.7) to the belay bolts.
The line of bolts that starts ten [feet] from the belay and goes to the left of the roof is the start to the Vanishing and Phantom Bridge. Instead, run it out (20 feet 5.7) to a bolt under the large roof. Go up the roof past three bolts (12b), shake out, and continue up and a bit left to climb a line of bolts just right of the arete. (This is between The Vanishing, which is left of the arete, and Phantom Bridge, which climbs an inside corner to the right).
Third class down the gully from the right end of Midnight Rock (Viola) for 50 feet or so until you see a corner system heading up to a double bolt belay under a clean wall with two prominent roofs and three bolted lines.
A few pieces for the first pitch. If you want to protect the run-out to the first bolt on the crux pitch, it might be possible. Something like ten draws will get you through the crux pitch. A long sling under the roof helps to minimize rope drag.
|Comments on Vanishing Ink
|By Peter Hunt|
Aug 1, 2006
I wasn't sure how to rate this. I tried the roof while lowering from Phantom Bridge and took a few falls figuring it out—which involved finding a crucial, inobvious hold. This would suggest a mid-to-hard 5.12, but, on the redpoint, it felt easy—easier, in fact, than the top section (12a in Rolofson). The route is well worth doing and I'd be interested in what other people think—and I wouldn't be surprised to hear that somebody had already freed it before me.