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Vanilla Sky S 

Vanilla Sky 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Adam Leedy on Sep 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Pulling the roof/crux.

Description 

Start in the middle of the roof on top of the large boulder. A direct start from the ground is viable but friable holds make it less than idea. Climb up the face to the roof and then start traversing on monster holds. After the third perma look for a hand swallowing pocket jug in the roof and pull some fun thugish moves on big hold over the lip


Location 

middle of the roof.


Protection 

four perma draws and mussey hooks at the anchors



Photos of Vanilla Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Really fun clipping stance.
BETA PHOTO: Really fun clipping stance.
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By Charlie Shannon
From: Denver, CO
Nov 18, 2013

Starting in the dihedral on the far left side of the slab is also a possibility. It's definitely easier but adds about 40ft of traverse moves, which can be a welcome warm-up before pulling the crux sequence at the lip to exit. The only downside is that this line gets super wet after a healthy rain. Give it a long while to dry out or you'll be in for a sloppy, muddy adventure.

By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Apr 28, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Start from the ground instead of on the boulder to make it a (soft) 11c.