Vanilla Cream 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Eric Odenthal |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | fall, cool mornings when it's in the shade |
| Submitted By: | Eric Odenthal on Sep 19, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: topo
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Description two routes to the right of wolverine. heads up 5.6 crack toward left facing bolted corner. crux is on the upper half.
Location right of wolverine 60 feet. blocky crack start heading to left facing corner. rap route with 60m rope.
Protection gear to 1", 4 bolts to ring anchor
the line essentially follows the rope. cut right a...
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BETA PHOTO: Vanilla Cream
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| Comments on Vanilla Cream |
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By logan johnson
From: West Copper, Co
Oct 14, 2008
| 10a- fun one move wounder in the dihedral. For bolts to anchor, no gear needed for 5.3 start. |
By Greg D
From: Here
Oct 29, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| This is the same start as RP City. For RP City, climb the easy blocky crack (same for Vanilla Cream), then move out left and into the thin seem to a 2 bolt anchor. See route description for RP City.
Would be nice to see people use camoflouged bolts these days. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Mar 27, 2009
| This really is a one move wonder in the dihedral. It looks improbable until you get to the dihedral. |
By Eric Odenthal
Mar 31, 2009
| Actually RP City begins about 40 feet to the right of Freezer burn. There is a bolt near the start just above the furthest right of the ledge system. It then follows a corner to a small roof to the anchor.
The anchor with the tat is an unknown route. I know the ledge just below the anchor is loaded with death choss. aid route? |
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| Eric, you are listing RP City incorrectly. If you are getting this from Rock Climbing Utah they have shown it incorrectly but describe it correctly needing "loads of rp's" The route you describe doesn't take any rp's. If you climb the route you mention above and RP City described on this site you will agree. |
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