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 ADVANCED
North/West side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biomechanoid S 
Chocolate Thunder S 
Citizen of Time S 
Crisis In Utopia T 
D'Antonio Approach S 
Dangle Your Participle S 
Hammertime S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
Just Say No To Jugs S 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 
Lubme S 
Overkill S 
Overlard (aka Foops) S 
Overlichen S 
Overloord S 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 
Primal Scream S 
Putterman Gully Jump S 
Route 7 S 
Route 8 S 
Sandy Pocket Crack T 
Toprope face (unknown) TR 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 
Vanilla Crack T 
Vasoconstrictor S 
View with a Room S 

Vanilla Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 25, 2009

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The enjoyable Vanilla Crack.

Description 

This is an excellent less traveled wide crack that offers some good basalt climbing in a slightly overhanging hands to wide hands crack in left facing open book. Tricky opening moves to sustained climbing above the crux with a good rest or two.

Location 

This route is the obvious crack in between Overlichen and Chocolate Thunder.

Protection 

Camalots: 1-#.75, 2-#2, 3-#3, and 2-#4, some draws with low profile biners(spirits, positrons, or equivalent) for the anchors(to fit through the chain links) if you go to the Overlichen anchors(to the left). The chains are short and on stud bolts with washers. The Chocholate Thunder anchors to the right have bolt hangers + biners to lower from.


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