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 ADVANCED
North/West side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biomechanoid 
Chocolate Thunder 
Citizen of Time 
Crisis In Utopia 
D'Antonio Approach 
Dangle Your Participle 
Hammertime 
Huecos Rancheros 
Just Say No To Jugs 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack 
Lubme 
Overkill 
Overlard (aka Foops) 
Overlichen 
Overloord 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 
Primal Scream 
Putterman Gully Jump 
Route 7 
Route 8 
Sandy Pocket Crack 
Toprope face (unknown) 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) 
Vanilla Crack 
Vasoconstrictor 
View with a Room 

Vanilla Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 25, 2009
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The enjoyable Vanilla Crack.

Description 

This is an excellent less traveled wide crack that offers some good basalt climbing in a slightly overhanging hands to wide hands crack in left facing open book. Tricky opening moves to sustained climbing above the crux with a good rest or two.


Location 

This route is the obvious crack in between Overlichen and Chocolate Thunder.


Protection 

Camalots: 1-#.75, 2-#2, 3-#3, and 2-#4, some draws with low profile biners(spirits, positrons, or equivalent) for the anchors(to fit through the chain links) if you go to the Overlichen anchors(to the left). The chains are short and on stud bolts with washers. The Chocholate Thunder anchors to the right have bolt hangers + biners to lower from.



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